Wednesday 22 January 2014

Gaztelugatxe - An hermitage in Basque Country


In the Basque country up in Northern Spain, discreetly tucked away in a small islet (not big enough to be called an island) is an hermitage called Gaztelugatxeko Doniene (in Basque), or San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in Spanish.  Okay, neither is easier to pronounce, but Juan is Spanish for John, Gaztelu is Basque for Castle, the rest is Rock, so roughly it translates to St. John's Castle on the Rugged Rock.  It is a very well known place in the region, and on a good day you will see flocks of tourists coming here.  First, let me explain the location.


 It is roughly 35km away from Bilbao on winding roads, passing through a mid-size town called Mungia and a few smaller towns, where the roads are well paved and signs well marked.  You can't approach the hermitage by car; just follow the signs to the car park and then go on foot for about 1.5km to 2km down the hill.  The church rises 150m above sea level on the little island (one of two along this coast), connected by a primitive stone path and a flight of stairs to the top of the island. 








Built in the 9th or 10th century, the hermitage seems to be a relic from the Knights' Templar.  We now have little idea of how the original hermitage looked like, as it had been pillaged and destroyed several times through the last thousand years.  The present church that stands on top of the island was under extensive restoration and was only opened in 1980.  


Although the church may be a little underwhelming, the long walk down the hill and then up the rock bridge to the top of the island makes one connect spiritually to the pilgrims and monks who partook this contemplative journey in the past.  One is held speechless at the beautiful sight of the Bay of Biscay, the thousand-year-old path to the hermitage, and the glimpse of the devotion of man to God that has now but dimmed to a dull glow.   

Official website: http://www.bermeokoudala.net/gaztelugatxe.html?&L=4

Introduction by Guggenhaim Museum: http://www.guggenheim-bilbao.es/en/plan-your-visit/sightsee/explore-biscay/san-juan-de-gaztelugatxe/

Ever wonder what Basque language looks like? http://eu.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaztelugatxe















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