Ernest So is a concert pianist who appears regularly in recitals across Europe, Asia, the US, Australia, and the Middle East. He is a lover of history, an avid traveler, collector, gastronome, and an all-round bon vivant. With an aching knack for the obscure, he actively seeks out unique travel experiences, which he will share with you in this blog.
Woke up early one winter morning while staying at a local Austria inn around Wörthersee and decided to take a morning drive, to leave the first pair of footprints, so to speak. The stillness of an Alpine morning is deeply spiritual. Wörthersee lies in the southern Austrian state of Carinthia, sharing a border with Slovenia to the south, about 330km southwest of Vienna, 150km from Graz. It's a long, horizontal lake on the map, with Klagenfurt on the eastern end and Villach on the west. Its colour has a wonderful blue-green hue that is almost crystal clear. I imagine the lake will be full of bathers and vacationers during the summer; but now, in the early morning fog, the ducks were the only ones enjoying the water. Historically, Viennese nobility loved the Wörthersee as their vacation spot. One can still spot grand old villas dotted around the lake.
On the western end is the city of Villach, which had been inhabited since Roman times. Several severe earthquakes destroyed much of the town during the last millennium, but that was nothing compared to the bombing by the allied forces during World War II. Much of the old buildings were bombed flat. Now, Villach is as cosmopolitan as one can imagine, with a thriving market place and a touristic center for vacationers. Let's hope it stays this way for a long time to come. Official website: http://www.villach.at/inhalt/englisch/7682.asp
It was a cold and snowy February, not easy to keep myself warm and to warm up entirely before I play, short of putting my hands in the oven. The recital hall, at the basement cellar of Domgasses 5, was where Mozart lived from 1784 to 1787. Steps from the St. Stephan Cathedral, the original entrance was actually on Schulerstrasse, which is now a shop. The Mozarts rented the upstairs apartment; the building now is run as a museum and a concert venue, aptly named Mozarthaus. Needless to say, the piano was a Bosendorfer. Quite a bright piano too, I might add; given the size of the room (about 60 seats?) the small Imperial 290 is just perfect. In attendance at my recital was representatives from the Argentinian Embassy. I bet they were surprise to find an Asian playing Argentine music in Vienna!
While Café Central or Sacher are staples in every Viennese guidebook, the quiet and elegant Café Landtmann is fast becoming my favourite. It boosts an interior with old-world charm, a verandah with a cheerful view of Rathaus Park, and a team of staff impeccably dressed, courteous yet discreet. I can spend hours here without dealing with the crowded rush at Café Central or at Demel.
I have often heard that prices are slightly higher, but on doing a price comparison between Landtmann and Central, this is actually about the same and even cheaper on some items. Price aside, I think the bake goods here are excellent, so are the coffess.
Official website: http://www.landtmann.at Address: Universitätsring 4, 1010 Vienna, Austria Station: Rathausplatz/Burgtheater 當一般旅遊書都著重介紹 Café Central 或者 Café Sacher 的時候，寧靜而又優雅的 Café Landtmann 反而成為了我的喜愛。Café Landtmann由兩部份組成，進門後你會先見到在玻璃屋內的半露天座位。坐在這裏你可以充分享受透過玻璃屋頂照射在室內的陽光，同時亦不受風雨影響。穿過半露天茶座後，你會見到一個裝修古色古香的咖啡室。這個咖啡室的裝潢擺設以至器皿用具都是二十世紀初的設計，加上穿戴一絲不苟的男侍應有禮而又專業的招待，這一切都可以使你在這裏悠閒地消磨好幾個小時。一般評論都說 Café Landtmann 的收費比較高，但經我詳細地與 Café Central 作比較後，發現它們都相差不大，而有一些項目在 Café Landtmann 收費更便宜！其實除了價錢之外，咖啡及甜點小食都是對一間咖啡店非常重要的，而 Café Landtmann 在這兩方面都做得非常出色。 官方網頁: http://www.landtmann.at/ 地址：Universitätsring 4, 1010 Vienna, Austria 車站: Rathausplatz/Burgtheater
If you are a music lover, a record collector, or even a casual listener, you cannot miss the Teuchtler in Vienna. It is simply the best record shop in this city, boosting everything from classical (standard cannon and obscure stuff), jazz, pop and rock. Mostly known for their LP collection - which is huge - there some CDs on the shelf too. I go straight to the two rooms on classical LPs that are stacked to the ceiling (self-service step ladders provided). Listening stations (turntables and CD players) are provided, and good prices too. I looted 14 LPs (some double discs) for 90€ - and don't forget I've already picked the rare and expensive ones. No wonder this place has been called every music-lover's wet dream. Incidentally, this also appeared in Ethan Hawke/Julie Delpy movie 'Before Sunrise'. Address: Windmühlgasse 10, 1060 Vienna. https://www.facebook.com/pages/TEUCHTLER-RECORDS-BEFORE-SUNRISE-LOCATION/134231236631584
