Finding a peaceful sanctuary these days isn't easy. After my concert in Tel Aviv and a visit up north to the Sea of Galilee, I attempted to drive even further north - yes, towards the border with Lebanon, where the Israeli and the Hezbollah had stopped exchanging bombs since the Lebanon war in 2006, in what is now mostly vineyards and agricultural oasis. Local wines from the nearby Golan Heights provide a perfect match for the fresh produce, and it seemed like a perfect place to get away from the piano.
The northern-most town of Israel is Metula. Funded by
Baron Rothschild in 1896, it was originally intended as farmlands, establishing around 60 Jewish families here. Writers in the early 20th already praised the beautiful nature surrounding Metula. During the British Mandate period, refugees scurried through the border into Israel, often hiding in homes for the locals to stage fake weddings before moving further inland away from the border. More recently it has become a quiet resort town with small hotels and guest houses.
The drive from Sea of Galilee to Metula was very enjoyable, passing by pastures and farmlands, and little scenic villages. Entering into Metula, the initial impression was more intimidating than I thought: assault vehicles, double fences, unidentified military structures, closed off areas, and probably the most chilling sight of all, the yellow Hezbollah flag flying at a distance. After taking a deep breath to regain some unruffled sanity in this place of strife and conflict, everything - including the Lebanese side - looked so calm and placid, the landscape so charming and serene, and there were even sounds of children coming from a playground nearby.
Official website with vineyards and hotel recommendations: http://goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Tourist%20Information/Discover%20Israel/Cities/Pages/Metula.aspx
Heading into one of the restaurants, I was greeted warmly by the proprietor who was tasting some wine from a nearby winery. The third-generation winemaker brought along a couple of bottles and beckoned me to join their tasting. Composed and professional, he talked about his wine and vineyard in the Golan Heights with perfect English, and I happily selected a few bottles of my favourites.
The tranquility of the area has left an indelible impression in my mind, but tranquility is like a rainbow that exists only in our vision rather than the sky. Shortly after I visited, there were news of bombs dropping near Metula (see here and here). I sincerely hope that my newly found friends are safe and out of harm's way.
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