Yorkshire is often associated with fantastic fish and chips and its beautiful coastline, but a short distance inland and seated right about Leeds is one of the largest and best preserved monasteries in England, the Fountains Abbey.
Tucked inside a vast royal park is the ruins of a 12th century monastery. Also listed as an UNESCO Heritage Site, the ruin now lends an elegant and romantic aura for those who venture into this massive stone structure. For the locals, this must have been an architecture of power, a pink sandstone structure rising out of the landscape and framed by a never-ending expanse of green.
Like the Lacock Abbey, Fountains Abbey was disbanded in 1539 by Henry VIII. It followed a downward route into deterioration, and became a stone quarry for the nearby towns of Ripon and York. It wasn't until the 18th century when it became one of the most treasured monuments of England.
After going through the state-of-the-art visitors' centre (and getting your tickets), you are immediately greeted by acres of woodlands with the Abbey tower looming at a distance. As one approaches the Abbey via a steep path through the woods, the gigantic stone structure comes plainly into view - what a humbling sight for the viewer. The façade of the church still stands, very much in the French Cistercian manner; while the Great Cloister corridor stretches to the right. There are few sights more magnificent than this.
Much around the inner cloister court is in ruin and it is hard to imagine the tranquil refuge that it once was. Even more dilapidated was the Abbot's House at the back of the Abbey (which extends to the royal park) - here, only a few foundation stones are left. The river Skell flows rapidly nearby, which must have served the monks both as a water source and a natural sewage system.
The visit ends with an idyllic walk over to the Studley Royal Water Garden and a deer park.
Getting there:
It is 2 hours by train from London King's Cross to York, after that it is about an hour's drive through the beautiful Yorkshire countryside. Buy early to score a cheap First Class seat which includes breakfast (or a light meal).
Official information on National Trust: http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/fountains-abbey/
Ernest So is a concert pianist who appears regularly in recitals across Europe, Asia, the US, Australia, and the Middle East. He is a lover of history, an avid traveler, collector, gastronome, and an all-round bon vivant. With an aching knack for the obscure, he actively seeks out unique travel experiences, which he will share with you in this blog.
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