tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78144817502666953522024-03-06T03:08:48.711+01:00Pianistus Herodotus - Travel notebook of a concert pianistErnest So is a concert pianist who appears regularly in recitals across Europe, Asia, the US, Australia, and the Middle East. He is a lover of history, an avid traveler, collector, gastronome, and an all-round bon vivant. With an aching knack for the obscure, he actively seeks out unique travel experiences, which he will share with you in this blog.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.comBlogger121125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-28308781904636864312015-12-10T07:50:00.001+01:002015-12-10T08:04:19.487+01:00Historical Ancestral Mansion at Cambados, Galicia, Spain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: georgia, 'times new roman', serif; font-size: large;">The Parador group in Spain is a collection of historical monuments converted into luxury hotels, run by the Spain government. Here at the Parador in Cambados, heart of the Albariño vineyards in Galicia, we had the opportunity of staying at what was once an ancestral mansion. Its squarish layout betrays its somewhat austere past, but its interior decor was charming and inviting. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Many of the rooms are dedicated to Galician writers, and the special room in this property is named after the famed 20th century poet and dramatist Herminia Fariña. The Parador director took us on a tour of the special room and the rest of the property, which was calmly filled with beautiful old furniture. Rooms are tastefully appointed too, with an ambiance that exudes a demur historical charm. The breakfast in the morning was a sumptuous feast.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The hotel sits on the same road as the yearly Albariño festival, which takes place around the first Sunday of August. Beyond that is the ocean, where you could see fishermen tidying up their boats and fishnets at a distance. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Official website: <a href="http://www.parador.es/en/paradores/parador-de-cambados">http://www.parador.es/en/paradores/parador-de-cambados</a></span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Cambados, Pontevedra, Spain42.5137374 -8.814517300000034142.490202399999994 -8.8550293000000337 42.5372724 -8.7740053000000344tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-1085651439696406812015-01-14T10:25:00.002+01:002015-10-11T02:31:10.081+02:00How did monks live? Try staying at a Monastery-Hotel. Asturias, Northern Spain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Ever wonder how monks used to live? Well, I am not suggesting an ascetic lifestyle but at least we could put ourselves in their habitat - an 8th century Benedictine monastery, to be exact. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Monastery of San Pedro de Villanueva was founded during the reign of the King Alfonso I (693-757, reigned 739-757) in Asturias, the northern province of Spain. Every Asturian will tell you the glorious history of the Reconquest, when King Alfonso I eschewed a luxury life of a king and waged lifelong battles against the Moors, retaking the entire Northern Spain that was, during his father's generation, conquered by the Muslims. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Traditionally believed to be founded on February 21, 746, the monastery and its adjacent 12th century church has left us a wealth of archaeological finds. It underwent extensive reconstruction during the 17th century, but by 1835 the monks were disbanded. The Spanish government took over the property and declared it a monument in 1907. It is now part of the Parador hotel group, with splendid rooms modeled along the original structure - the very same cells where monks used to work, pray, and live. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Monastery and the Romanesque Church are open to public. Archaeological and religious relics are displayed throughout the Monastery, and the tranquil cloister is now a peaceful sanctuary for guests to enjoy local wines and cheeses - which, I assume, were daily fares of the monks. The restaurant, too, serves interesting "Monastery recipes". </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">It was lovely to be back in Cangas de Oní</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">s and the surrounding mountains. View my two previous blog posts on </span><a href="http://ernestso.blogspot.com.es/2014/01/asturias.html" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank">Asturias</a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"> and the </span><a href="http://ernestso.blogspot.com.es/2014/10/bulnes.html" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank">mountains</a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">. Cangas de </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Oní</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">s is the doorway to Pico de Europa, a vast expanse of nature preserve set in a backdrop of sheer mountains and pastures. To the north is the coastline of the Bay of Biscay and, more important, amazing food. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Parador hotels around Spain are mostly Spanish historic landmarks, managed by the government since the 1920s. Official website: <a href="http://www.parador.es/">http://www.parador.es/</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">For complete information about the Parador de Cangas de Onís, download this beautifully produced brochure: <a href="http://www.parador.es/sites/default/files/parador/adjuntos/2013/09/cangas_eng.pdf">http://www.parador.es/sites/default/files/parador/adjuntos/2013/09/cangas_eng.pdf</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Hotel Director: José García</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Address: Monasterio de San Pedro de Villanueva, 33550 Cangas de Onís. It is a short distance north of Cangas de Onís; follow the main road and turn right at the second roundabout. Roads are well sign-posted. </span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com033550 Cangas de Onís, Asturias, Spain43.350625099999988 -5.1310132999999543.339078599999986 -5.15118329999995 43.362171599999989 -5.1108432999999494tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-15240283191456889842015-01-13T23:25:00.003+01:002015-10-11T02:26:21.317+02:00Massif des Calanques, a 6-million-year-old natural wonder near Marseille<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Marseille is best known for its port, its 13th century Basilica, a massive cathedral, the fish market, the Arab market, and the heavenly bouillabaisse. However, not all of Marseille is connected to city life and human history. In fact, human existence is a recent addition to this amazing coastal city.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Drive down towards the southern coast of Marseille to a town called Sormiou. Keep heading south until you pass all the houses to an area where car access is restricted. Continue on foot for about 45 minutes until you reach the ocean. Here, the coastline forms a roughly horizontal plane east-ward until Cassis, and it is here a geological event happened around 6 million years ago.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">When the Mediterranean Sea began to separate almost completely from the Atlantic around 5 to 6 million years ago, a massive drop of water level took place, causing deep cuts onto the limestone which is now called the Calanques. Soil does not exist here, and plants anchor themselves onto the limestone cracks. The deepest cut - or the biggest Calanque - is at Sormiou, and countless smaller ones can be seen all the way east-ward until Cassis. The Calanques are now declared National Parks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">It is an easy walk towards the bottom, and hikers are greeted with extraordinary scenery of limestone cliff covered with endemic </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Mediterranean plants. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">At the bottom of the cliff at Calanque de Sormiou is a quaint little restaurant Le Lunch which serves fresh regional dishes on the ocean front. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">It would be interesting to explore the rest of the Calanques. Immediately to the east is the Calanque de Morgiou, where, preserved by nature, are cave paintings in an underground grotto accessible by divers. </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosquer_Cave" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank"> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosquer_Cave</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Calanques can be visited by car then no foot, or by cruise setting off from Marseille. <a href="http://www.calanques13.com/" target="_blank"> http://www.calanques13.com/</a> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Restaurant Le Lunch: <a href="http://www.restaurant-lunch.com/">http://www.restaurant-lunch.com/</a></span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Sormiou, Marseille, France43.2313397 5.402534599999967243.1850582 5.321853599999967 43.2776212 5.4832155999999674tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-25661984231048981642015-01-12T02:14:00.000+01:002015-01-12T02:21:00.758+01:00Medieval Catalonia: Millennium-old town of Besalú<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">If you think Barcelona is all you are going see when visiting the northeast part of Spain, you are missing out on some of the most beautiful sights of the region. The county of Catalonia traces back a thousand years, when many market towns thrived along the important trade routes north and south of the Pyrenees mountains. The town of Besalú was documented since the 10th century. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">At that time, Spain as a country has not yet emerged; a region called Marca Hispania roughly covers what is now Catalonia, and was a zone created by Charlemagne as a defensive line against the moors occupying Al-Andalus in the south. Before that, the Muslim forces had conquered as far north as Narbonne (250km north of Barcelona). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">With Charlemagne taking control of the region, peace reigned</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"> and trade flourished. This was a place of colourful people and culture, from Basques to Hispano-Romans to Jews and Muslims to Goths. Besalú was one of the liveliest towns, bustling with artisans, shops, and traders gathered from the area. In fact, the first shop as you enter the town gates is a shop that sells some of the most beautifully made wooden toys. The spirit of artisans and craftsmanship is still very much alive.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Several important and beautiful sites dominate the town, such as the Monastery of Saint Peter (10th century), the Gate and the Bridge (11th to 14th century), Jewish Bath and Synagogue (13th century), various towers, walls (from 11th to 14th century), squares and Medieval buildings. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Reserve about 2 hours to explore the entire town, more if you enjoy visiting little shops and artist ateliers. Restaurants and cafes are found in all the squares, as well as what used to be the Jewish quarters, now overlooking the river. A <a href="http://www.earlymusicbesalu.com/" target="_blank">Medieval Music festival</a> takes place in Besalú each year. From Barcelona, it is about an hour and half of scenic drive; or take a train to Girona and change to a direct bus to Besalú. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Official Spain Tourism website: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres/ciudades-pueblos/otros-destinos/besalu.html">http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres/ciudades-pueblos/otros-destinos/besalu.html</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">How to get there: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.earlymusicbesalu.com/site1/location/how-to-get-there/">http://www.earlymusicbesalu.com/site1/location/how-to-get-there/</a></span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com017850 Besalú, Girona, Spain42.2010573 2.69217419999995442.1951758 2.6820891999999539 42.2069388 2.7022591999999541tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-15990649766058284522015-01-11T01:46:00.000+01:002017-03-03T02:17:57.663+01:00The legacy of Ricardo Viñes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had been learning Spanish music since I was a schoolboy, everything from major composers such as Isaac Albeniz and Enrique Granados to lesser-performed Catalan composers such as Ricard Lamote de Grignon and Ricardo Viñes. With equal part fantasy and theatre, Spanish and Catalan music never fails to captivate me. Here is something by Catalan composer and pianist Ricardo Viñes (1875 - 1943), recorded eons ago at a home concert. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ricardo Viñes (1875 - 1943) is a personal hero of mine, as he was the pianist credited with the most number of premiere </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">performances, of works by his contemporaries such as Debussy and Ravel and Turina and Mompou and all. Abandoning the traditional recital programme of Austro-Germanic piano works, </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Viñes </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">was responsible for spreading and campaigning the names of "new " composers to audiences in Spain and France and Latin America. Without </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Viñes </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">we might never hear of them today.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">He wrote very little, publishing even less. I believe he published only 4 short piano pieces (published two years after he died, and only 300 printed!), and a bunch of songs never published (of which I have copies of manuscripts). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">According to stories told by Mompou, </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Viñes' finances were catastrophic. Even though his friends read like a Who's Who list (eg. Picasso gave Viñes the "<a href="https://www.facebook.com/LaPitturaItalianaDellOttocento/photos/a.530535680326728.1073741832.486466124733684/579645322082430/" target="_blank">L'Hetaire</a>", now part of the Agnelli collection in Italy) and his unfailing dedication to countless composers and artists, he was having troubles making ends meet. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The list of composers with whom </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Viñes had associated is literally endless. When he passed away in 1943, a part of his library - 836 works - was put on sale by his family. From time to time I still discover pieces that were either dedicated to </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Viñes or premiered by him. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.ricardovines.eu/">http://www.ricardovines.eu/</a></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Again with Ravel on the right</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Program of 1944 concert given in memory of Ricardo Viñes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7bGF0g55x0mQDc8dUIKRkBifZnKUPnaRIIUsygSXGzA0Mm5QwgWIiNGkffb75YqwYTKPxppbt_RsNXquszyOG4QwgGzb0tL9N5r1FVwNKpTHvMEHbuQ1YiqBBNc2NgB7JdbM6tXAVkU/s1600/Scan14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7bGF0g55x0mQDc8dUIKRkBifZnKUPnaRIIUsygSXGzA0Mm5QwgWIiNGkffb75YqwYTKPxppbt_RsNXquszyOG4QwgGzb0tL9N5r1FVwNKpTHvMEHbuQ1YiqBBNc2NgB7JdbM6tXAVkU/s1600/Scan14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found a pile of manuscripts while visiting Mompou's house (now Mompou Foundation) a few years ago. I believe these songs have not been published, and I am currently requesting more information from Viñes' surviving families. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">His only original piano works, only 300 copies printed. I believe there is one CD recording (by Joaquin Soriano) of all 4. I recorded one, am planning to play the rest in coming seasons.</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-9577207710375560192015-01-06T01:37:00.001+01:002015-01-08T01:06:21.565+01:00Possible concert idea: "Shuck and Play" with music by Breton composers?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo9F2z8yXW4E38KmY-lXNJYUX_SPNoKfghBkUW7eO3iAJK-xoRLpvhmR-fcw9qeMxIxWFA5TdKJSa9hLGkesdLCpgjkvzBdcMUIdYEZNKL8z9mzrqFh6mv5dIIYSgSVWnVe-y0_eIAMc/s1600/ropartz_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo9F2z8yXW4E38KmY-lXNJYUX_SPNoKfghBkUW7eO3iAJK-xoRLpvhmR-fcw9qeMxIxWFA5TdKJSa9hLGkesdLCpgjkvzBdcMUIdYEZNKL8z9mzrqFh6mv5dIIYSgSVWnVe-y0_eIAMc/s1600/ropartz_1.jpg" height="400" width="297" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">There are other composers who wrote great Nocturnes too, you know. Guy Ropartz (1864 - 1955) was a French composer who added three beautiful Nocturnes to the piano repertoire. His music can sometimes take after Cesar Franck and Vincent d'Indy, especially apparent in the first Nocturne; at other times, like in the second and third Nocturnes his music offers a palette of stunning harmonic colours and nuances that are unmistakably French. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Though living well into the 1950s, his late-romantic language </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">was almost entirely unaffected by any avant-garde movements. I have collected all the early and first editions of his piano works. Here are Nocturnes Nos. 2 and 3 (No. 1 is on loan to a student) - notice the dedicatee of the 2nd Nocturne: it was written for Blanche Selva, one of the Golden Age women pianists! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Incidentally, Ropartz came from one of my favourite regions of France, the land of oysters, Brittany. That brings to mind a possibility of perhaps having an oyster-and-music evening? "Shuck and Play", anyone?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Ropartz was born in a very traditional Breton town called Guingamp. I had visited Guingamp during one of my many trips to Brittany and I highly recommend a meal at Brasserie L'O. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Association Guy Ropartz (no longer updated): <a href="http://guyropartz.chez-alice.fr/">http://guyropartz.chez-alice.fr/</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Brasserie L'O: <a href="http://www.restaurant-brasserie-lo.com/">http://www.restaurant-brasserie-lo.com/</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Guingamp, the town where Ropartz was born; "Gwengamp" is the Breton spelling. </span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Guingamp, France48.561366 -3.148351999999931648.5193305 -3.2290329999999319 48.6034015 -3.0676709999999314tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-29675376483957732792014-12-16T09:54:00.002+01:002014-12-17T09:44:56.115+01:00Harking back to a bygone age - recital at the 1901 Arts Club, London<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Music had, for centuries, played an important role in our society. Paintings and documents have long afforded us a glimpse into the vibrant musical life of generations past, particularly the music salons of 19th century. These salons were meeting places for music lovers, performers, composers, instrument makers, and the curious minded public of every walk of life - a cocktail of interesting characters unlikely to come together if not for the occasion. Several performers would take to the stage, with slightly less fanfare than at a concert hall proper but every bit as compelling and </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">captivating, and there is always this magical feeling between artists who share a stage, as though they have been let on a secret and have instantly bonded by this shared experience. </span><br />
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<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; font-size: large; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">音樂自古到今都在我們的社會中扮演了重要的角色。我們可以從很多古老的畫作及文獻裏窺看到從前社會上充滿生氣的音樂生活,尤其是十九世紀的沙龍音樂會。這些沙龍音樂會是音樂愛好者、演奏家、作曲家、樂器工藝家、以至充滿好奇心的遊人的聚腳點,這些大家並不認識的人可能就隻有在音樂沙龍這些聚會上才有機會碰面。雖然當時在沙龍裏演奏並不如在正式的演奏廳演奏那樣值得炫耀,但是這種親密的演奏形式往往會帶來更富魅力、更扣人心弦的效果。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">London is a fabulous city for musicians, not just for her monumental Royal Albert or Wigmore but for countless of these romantic salons that hark back to a bygone age. The finale of this year's <a href="http://slcs1901.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">South London Concert Series</a> took place at one such venue, the <a href="http://www.1901artsclub.com/" target="_blank">1901 Arts Club</a>, next the Waterloo Station. A small entrance on a quiet side street opens into an alluring, instantly likable room, with a modern Steinway & Sons model C to boot (serial number 500k, from the '90s). The piano sounded crisp (hammers barely worn) but with enough power to pack a punch. It seats around 50, and on the night of the recital it was packed from wall to wall. Four talented pianists gave their rendition of Medtner, Rachmaninoff, Mompou and Ireland before I launch myself into a Russian programme. The rarely performed transcriptions of Rachmaninoff by Earl Wild, as well as the Preludes of Reinhold Gliere, sounded so achingly beautiful in this venue. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">倫敦對所有音樂家來說都是一個精彩絶倫的城市,這不單是因為她的皇家阿爾伯特音樂廳或威格摩爾音樂廳,這亦因為她擁有無數富有浪漫色彩、令人懷念過去的音樂沙龍。今年「南倫敦演奏會系列」的最後一場音樂會就在這樣的一個沙龍裏擧行。這個場地位於滑鐵盧車站旁邊的</span> <a href="http://www.1901artsclub.com/" target="_blank">1901 Arts Club</a><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">,它位於寧靜內街的小門口通往這個迷人的沙龍,房間裏放了一部九十年代製的斯坦威</span>C<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">系大鋼琴。這裏大概可以坐五十個人,演奏會的這晚就坐滿了整整一房間的人。四位優秀的演奏家分別彈奏了梅特納、拉赫曼尼諾夫、蒙波以及來自愛以蘭的作品,之後我就演奏了今個樂季的俄羅斯曲目。我彈的包括了很少人彈、由厄爾‧懷爾德改編的拉赫曼尼諾夫的作品,以及葛利爾的前奏曲,這些音樂都在這個漂亮的沙龍裏産生了很好的聲音效果。</span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The South London Concert Series provides performance opportunities for serious amateurs alongside professional artists and holds its events in charming spaces such as the 1901 Arts Club. It is hosted by Frances Wilson and Lorraine Liyanage, two London music educators and writers of the well-known blog on music '<a href="http://crosseyedpianist.com/" target="_blank">The Cross-Eyed Pianist</a>', where I was also featured in a recent <a href="http://crosseyedpianist.com/2014/12/09/meet-the-artist-ernest-so-pianist/" target="_blank">interview</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Information on South London Concert Series: </span><a href="http://slcs1901.wordpress.com/" style="font-size: x-large;">http://slcs1901.wordpress.com/</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">南倫敦演奏會系列一向都給與專業演奏家以至業餘演奏者一個很好的演出平台,並在</span> 1901 Arts Club <span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">這樣舒適典雅的沙龍場地擧行。主辦人</span>Frances Wilson <span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">及</span> Lorraine Liyanage <span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">都是倫敦的音樂教育家,並是著名的音樂博客</span><span lang="ZH-TW"> </span><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">「</span><a href="http://crosseyedpianist.com/" target="_blank">TheCross-Eyed Pianist</a><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">」的筆者,我最近亦接受了她們的<a href="http://crosseyedpianist.com/2014/12/09/meet-the-artist-ernest-so-pianist/" target="_blank">訪問</a>。</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Exton Road, London NW10 8US, UK51.5434124 -0.2651264999999511951.5427954 -0.26638699999995119 51.5440294 -0.2638659999999512tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-64096720728121364612014-12-15T00:20:00.001+01:002014-12-17T09:45:49.040+01:00Book Review - The Recorded Legacy of Vladimir Horowitz<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyn09LbdZ3LamXOwPtDgFNfZ3mrDYocdnbOvx9m7kG0qyQodJIpomZ-Vf6QGLkHn1icKGEqQtHRSpZv1KwN96zTEZMjaMRIEfJm0Oy-4-2WxsKiBliLMv_1aMXVLYOiOGpD6ACradLi3c/s1600/885523_734384456650058_634446865386672704_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyn09LbdZ3LamXOwPtDgFNfZ3mrDYocdnbOvx9m7kG0qyQodJIpomZ-Vf6QGLkHn1icKGEqQtHRSpZv1KwN96zTEZMjaMRIEfJm0Oy-4-2WxsKiBliLMv_1aMXVLYOiOGpD6ACradLi3c/s1600/885523_734384456650058_634446865386672704_o.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo with 'Recorded Legacy of Vladimir Horowitz' author, Jun Kinoshita</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I often call pianists of my age the 'Horowitz Generation'. I grew up listening, watching, and reading about Vladimir Horowitz; my parents weren't using Mozart as a ruler for pianistic excellence, but Horowitz. In our modest collection of recordings at home, Horowitz' far out-numbered any other pianists. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">At Juilliard, I sat in David Dubal's class. Mr. Dubal is well-known far and beyond for his radio programme, his encyclopedic knowledge of the piano repertoire, as well as his association with Vladimir Horowitz. </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">His 'Evenings with Horowitz' was probably the first book on music I have read outside of required readings, and if asked, Horowitz would have been the one pianist I wanted to meet in person. I am through and through a product of the Horowitz Generation.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I have since amassed a collection of records, mostly LPs. I consider myself only a passive listener, seldom venturing beyond the disc into the history behind it, while many music-lover friends would go deep into a pianist's discography. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Last month (November 2014) a new book has come out trumping all previous published materials, online and off, on Horowitz' legacy preserved in recordings. Compiled by two music lovers and record collectors (one of whom gave me the book) this contains the most comprehensive information of Horowitz in every recorded media, from LP to cassette to laser disc to CD, from old concert programmes to newspaper clippings to books on Horowitz. Every jacket cover is represented here in full detail, and great efforts go into comparing discs released in different countries. Texts are in Japanese, but charts and tables are easy to understand, so are the index and appendices. The book is divided by recorded medium (45s, 78s, LPs, CDs, videos, books, magazines, etc.) and further subdivided by studio or label (EMI, RCA, CBS</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">, etc.). Discs are listed with their album matrix number, which help identify your own collection or discs you are looking for. There is a long section on different periods of Horowitz' concert and recording career, which is readable in Japanese only. Original newspaper clippings are included, and even different printing/editions/languages of books on Horowitz are listed out, including their covers. This is truly a trophy find for the Horowitz generation.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">431 pages in full colour, and comes with a fold-up poster of all record covers. Volodya would love to see this, and I am sure even Wanda would approve. Available on <a href="http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%9B%E3%83%AD%E3%83%B4%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%83%84%E3%81%AE%E9%81%BA%E7%94%A3-%E7%9F%B3%E4%BA%95%E7%BE%A9%E8%88%88/dp/4871983110/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417778546&sr=8-1" target="_blank">Amazon Japan</a> for 9,720 yen</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">, or 66 euros</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"> by today's conversion, this is one indispensable item for your library. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">我通常稱我這個年紀的綱琴家為「霍洛維茨的世代」。霍洛維茨的錄音、錄像及關於他的書本一直倍伴著我們成長,甚至連我的父母都用霍洛維茨而不是莫扎特去作好壞的準則。現在,在我家裏的個人收藏中,霍洛維茨的錄音的數量遠比任何一位的鋼琴家都要多很多!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">在茱莉亞上學的時候,我上了David Dubal 的課。Dubal 先生除了主持他十分有名的電台節目外,他亦著名於擁有像百科全書一樣的鋼琴曲目知識以及他與霍洛維茨的連系。他的書「Evenings with Horowitz」有可能是我自己選讀的第一本音樂書藉。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">我想我絶對是「霍洛維茨的世代」的產物。如果可以的話,霍洛維茨會是我希望可以親身會面的一位鋼琴家。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">我一直都有收藏錄音的習慣,而當中大部份都是黑膠唱片,但是我認為自己是一個被動的音樂聆聽者,因為我很少去追查每一張唱片背後的歷史及故事。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">上個月 (2014年11月) 一本記錄了霍洛維茨的錄音遺產的書面世了,這本書並遠遠超越了之前所有的出版。這本書由兩位音樂愛好者兼錄音收藏家撰寫,裏面詳盡地介紹了霍洛維茨的每一項錄音及資料,並從黑膠片錄音帶到現代的鐳射唱片、從很久以前的演奏會曲目到剪報書藉都一一囊括了。內文不但包含了每一個外殼封面,它還仔細地比較了在不同國家出版的分別。雖然內文是用日文撰寫,但書內的圖表、索引、附錄是大家都可以明白的。作者在書中先以出版的媒介去作劃分,如45、78、雷射唱片、錄像、書籍、雜誌等,其後再以出版商區分,如EMI、RCA、CBS等等。書內介紹的專輯都附有每張專輯獨有的區別碼,所以你一定可以在書中找到你自己擁有的珍藏。書中還用了一個長的篇幅以日文去介紹霍洛維茨於不同時代的演出及錄音生涯,以及當時不同版本不同語言的剪報,這本書怎能不令霍洛維茨迷愛不釋手?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">這本書一共有431頁,全彩色印刷,並附有一張列有所有唱片封面的摺頁海報。此書在<a href="http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%9B%E3%83%AD%E3%83%B4%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%83%84%E3%81%AE%E9%81%BA%E7%94%A3-%E7%9F%B3%E4%BA%95%E7%BE%A9%E8%88%88/dp/4871983110/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417778546&sr=8-1" target="_blank">日本亞馬遜</a>網站有售,售價9720日元,相等於今天的650 港幣。這本書將會是你私人圖書館裏面不可或缺的一本書。</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-12482506574298558292014-12-14T11:50:00.001+01:002014-12-15T09:38:40.892+01:00Kykkos Monastery - Cyprus at its most lavish and opulent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">In the course of my travels, I try to seek out locations and sights that would stir and inspire me. My heart is often drawn impatiently towards the destination, sometimes forgetting that the journey getting there is just as much an experience. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">The island of Cyprus is a Mediterranean paradise. After working in Nicosia and Paphos, both bustling resort paradises (particularly the latter), I set off in search of one of the most lavish and religious icons of Cyprus, the Kykkos Monastery. In distance, it is only 70km from Paphos, </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">and with my Formula One driving it would less than an hour - or so I thought. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">It started out on a small stretch of motorway. All good. Then came a sign that points to Troodos, the mountainous region where the monastery is built. For the next hour-and-half, I barely shifted beyond 2nd gear, negotiating with the unforgiving mountain curves, one after another, and another, and another. I was getting impatient, cursing under my breath, and yearning for a break.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">And there I discovered the beautiful landscape of the Troodos. Acres of farms and herds of Cypriot <a href="http://www.cyprusshamigoats.com/cyprus-shami-goats/" target="_blank">Shami goats</a> graced the mountains, under a blue, spotless sky. Barely a house or a soul in sight, and it was one of the most beautiful and tranquil landscape I have seen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Admiring the stunning scenery made the rest of the driving seemed like a breeze. Without much fanfare, I finally arrived at the Kykkos Monastery, and it was absolutely not what I have expected.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I have done a fair bit of reading before coming, including its famous legend quoted in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kykkos_Monastery#History" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a>, and I was expecting a grand and ostentatious entrance. Instead, it was a modest building of understated elegance, shrouded in tranquil solemnity and gorgeous natural landscape.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Founded in 11th Century and standing at 1318 metres above sea level, the monastery was burned down numerous times throughout its thousand-year history, and the present building is maintained in pristine condition and lavishly decorated. An icon of prime importance in Orthodox belief, the Theotokos (Virgin Mary), was brought here from Constantinople, ensuring its attention and position on the island. This icon of Mary is said to have miraculously helped the locals struggle against unpredictable natural disasters, from locust attacks to drought.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The richly decorated porch opens up to a quiet courtyard (and visitors are asked to put on robes before entering), surrounded by buildings in tiled roofs, arched passageways, and wooden stairs, and impressive murals and frescos. A bell tower stood against the wooded hillside, quieting watching over the Monastery. The opulent church was every bit as lavish as imagined. Every inch of wall and ceiling was covered in reliquary and art in one dominant colour - gold. The museum now exhibits a treasure trove of art and relics collected throughout its history.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">What began as an impatient road trip ended in transcendent splendor. If I ever return to Paphos I would take the same drive again. Aside from Kykkos, several small churches dot the Troodos mountains, and they are all listed in the <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/351" target="_blank">UNESCO World Heritage List</a>. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Official website with lots of pictures and videos (in Greek): <a href="http://www.kykkos.org.cy/">http://www.kykkos.org.cy/</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Add Kykkos on Facebook at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ImKykkou">https://www.facebook.com/ImKykkou</a></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last photo taken from <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kykkos_monastry_from_the_air.JPG" target="_blank">Wikimedia</a></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Paphos Forest, F966, Cyprus34.9844393 32.73726420000002734.9779343 32.72717920000003 34.990944299999995 32.747349200000023tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-84313047161097531672014-12-10T22:17:00.000+01:002014-12-17T09:46:00.429+01:00Chott el Jerid, Tunisia - Dry Salt Lake the closest thing to Mars on Earth?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">In the days of our grandfathers, sunrise was the tranquility that begins the cycle of daily routines. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">As light filters through darkness, the sun rises every morning tempting the birth of a new day. Today it is as much a spectacle as the Eiffel Tower or a football match, with no less commotion. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">True enough, while we were in Tunisia, we hired a tour guide who could bring us to the salt lake of Chott el Jerid where we could watch the sunrise, a sight that is bestowed upon us for millions of years. Chott el Jerid is a dried up salt lake at the border with Algeria in southwest Tunisia. With only about</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"> 100mm of rainfall coming down on the lake (London averaging 600mm, Bordeaux 900mm, Naples 1000mm), it is immediately dried up by the 50C/122F heat during much of the day. Only during winter does a bit of water gather in the lake.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Arriving at the salt lake at around 5:30am, the sky was tainted with smudge of orange glow. The salt crystal gave off an orange glint, but turns to sparkling white when picked up from the ground. The lake extends endlessly to the horizon, punctuated only by a distant hill where the sun was hiding, waiting to show itself to the eager watchers. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">For a few minutes our naive awe was transfixed upon the orange fireball. Within minutes the sky turned white and the last hint of cold night air brushed across our face. The day has begun. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">For an added bonus, the guide took us on an adventure ride in the desert, climbing and dropping us over sand dunes with much drama and excitement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">A visit to the Chott el Jerid is highly recommended during your stay in Tunisia. It is a popular item on most of the tours, and can be easily reached by car, near the town of Tozeur. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Scientist remarked that <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/05/100525090331.htm" target="_blank">Chott el Jerid might be the closest thing to Mars on Earth</a>, it is also currently being reviewed to pass as an <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5385/" target="_blank">UNESCO Heritage Site</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">從前,大概仍然是「日出而作,日入而息」的時代,太陽升起根本就是十分平常、人們每天都會看到的事情。每天的第一線曙光照亮了黑暗的夜空,太陽慢慢地從地平線上升起來,為大地帶來了新的一天﹔在現代的社會,看到日出卻好像是做了本世紀最驚天動地的一件事……</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">這一點其實我絶不反對,因為我就在突尼西亞看到了最動人心弦的日出。這天在突尼西亞,我們的導遊說可以帶我們去看</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"> Chott el Jerid <span lang="ZH-TW">鹽湖。</span>Chott el
Jerid <span lang="ZH-TW">是一個已經乾涸了的鹽湖,位於突尼西亞西南部與阿爾及利亞接壤的邊境。那裏每年大概隻有</span>100<span lang="ZH-TW">毫米的降雨量</span>(<span lang="ZH-TW">倫敦有</span>600<span lang="ZH-TW">毫米,波爾多有</span>900<span lang="ZH-TW">毫米,拿波裡有</span>1000<span lang="ZH-TW">毫米</span>)<span lang="ZH-TW">,雨通常一降下來就馬上乾了,因為那裏的夏天氣溫高達攝氏</span>50<span lang="ZH-TW">度,隻有在冬天的時間湖才可以儲到一點點的水。</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">我們那天大約早上五點三十分到達鹽湖,那時候天空已呈少許的橙黃,地上鹽的晶體亦沾上了漂亮的橙黃色,可是當我把鹽拿到手上的時候,它就馬上變回閃爍的晶體。這個鹽湖大得無邊際,它從四方八面一直申展到遠處地平線的小山丘那兒。就在地平線的那座小山丘,我們就等待著日出的來臨。</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">就在我們呆呆的不知道焦點應放在哪兒的時候,一點亮亮的橙紅火球就在小山丘後爬出來。這個紅火球不停上升的時候亦不停的變大,在短短的幾分鐘內已把整個天空照亮。新的一天開始了!</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">之後導遊更額外地帶我們坐很刺激的沙漠四驅車,我們沙漠上大大小小的沙丘上奔馳,大家都玩得樂而忘返。</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">如果你到突尼西亞旅遊,我極力推薦你到</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"> Chott el Jerid <span lang="ZH-TW">鹽湖,差不多所有當地的導賞圑都包括了這個景點。</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">有科學家曾說</span><span style="font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei",sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: "Microsoft JhengHei"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"> Chott el Jerid <span lang="ZH-TW">鹽湖可能擁有地球上最類似火星的地貌,這裏最近亦被列入聯合國教科文組織遺産。</span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Chott el Djerid, Tunisia33.7782165 8.3964938000000332.932953499999996 7.10560030000003 34.6234795 9.68738730000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-21027195047012412222014-12-08T17:09:00.000+01:002014-12-17T09:46:12.912+01:00D'Berto - The Best Seafood Restaurant in Spain!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Spain is a country that has insanely good food almost everywhere you go, and to crown an establishment (not only by me, but by every food critic in the Iberian Peninsular) as the best seafood restaurant is a royal feat. It has to boast not only the best cooking but also the best ingredients, and it is not a title born out of snap judgment. Welcome to Restaurante d'Berto.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">d'Berto would probably win the title of the most obscure fine dining location - in O Grove, Galicia, Northwest Spain, no less. I first met Berto months before I visited his restaurant, </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">and even then I have heard noises about how good he serves his seafood. I therefore chiseled in stone a lunch reservation when I was visiting Galicia again, and made sure I got hold of him so we could talk about his food.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">E: Ernest</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B: Berto</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">E: The seafood you serve is amazing. Where and how do they come by?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B: All the seafood and fishes are sourced from nearby fishing villages. I know every fishery in the region, and I pay top dollar for the best catch everyday. I never bargain with my suppliers, and they always reserve the best catch for me. Nothing in my restaurant is second grade. Each of these suppliers from the neighouring villages bring me the lobsters, oysters, giant prawns, and fishes everyday. And size does matter! We always get the biggest of everything! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">E: What is Galician cooking?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B: The main thing is produce, and then produce, and then produce. The preparations are always very simple - simple seasoning, little sauces. Very traditional, very family-like. Here in Galicia, our seafood and fishes is known throughout Spain as the highest quality. A lot of these seafood are not easy to get, such as the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goose_barnacle" target="_blank">Percebes</a>. Each year there are reports of people who died while collecting percebes. My mother used to be at the kitchen here, till about 7 years ago when my sister and I took over the restaurant, preparing the same recipes as our mother did.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">E: Give me some tips on how to choose my seafood.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B: Look at the colours. For example, the Cigalas (Langoustines) that we have are huge, with bright and powerful colour, which is not what you find at the market usually. The Percebes have to be short and fat, not long and lean. The long ones are good, but the short and fat ones are the best. In general, the colour of the seafood says a lot about its quality. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />Berto and his sister Marisol now run the restaurant. We have tried a tasting menu of several different kinds of seafood, starting from a salad with fresh mussels, homemade bread with local olive oil, then a Galician signature dish of Empanadas (pies), Galician oysters, a tuna tartare, percebes, grilled baby scallops (or zamburin</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">as), razor clams, cockles, clams, lobster salpicon, and pan fried lobsters in garlic and olive oil. It was simply a feast of some of the best seafood I have ever had. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">d'Berto is located in the town of O Grove, some 30 minutes from Cambados, capital of the Albarino wine in Galicia. The island of A Toxa is next to O Grove, which is a famous resort village and a spa town to boot. The whole area is punctuated by beautiful beaches and fishing villages. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">If you are into fine dining, this is one restaurant in Spain that you cannot afford to miss. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Find D'Berto on Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/DBerto-Restaurante/275745462471887" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">D'Berto Restaurante</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.google.es/maps/dir/Cambados/O+Grove/@42.4676228,-8.7527129,13z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0xd2f6ac173f11e4d:0xb8fc2ad62effa6cc!2m2!1d-8.8145173!2d42.5137374!1m5!1m1!1s0xd2f40505c346985:0x37fcd6af52df7751!2m2!1d-8.8651418!2d42.4959962!3e0?hl=en" target="_blank">av. Teniente Dominguez 84, 36980, O Grove</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">+34 986 73 34 47</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><a href="mailto:dberto.info@icloud.com">dberto.info@icloud.com</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><a href="mailto:dberto.info@icloud.com"><br /></a></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">西班牙是一個美食天堂的事實是無可否認的,無論你去到哪裏,你都可以輕易地找到令人涶涎三尺的海鮮美食。當然,這一切除了要歸功於當地最精湛的烹調技巧外,當中最好的食材亦是不能或缺的。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">d'Berto 餐廳位於西班牙西北部加利西亞省 O Grove 小鎮,它是當地最值得去 fine dining 的一間餐廳。當我認識老闆 Berto 的時候的還沒有去過他的餐廳,但是我已從當地人口中知道他的餐廳隻賣最巨型最上剩的海鮮,因此當我再次來到加利西亞的時候,我就預訂了到 d'Berto 吃一頓午餐,並於餐後聽他細說他的海鮮故事。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">E: 筆者</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B: Berto</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">E:你的海鮮真的很出色,牠們是來哪裏來的?你是怎樣把牠們帶到這裏?</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B:這裏的所有海産及魚都是來自附近的漁村,我認識這個地區的所有漁農,我給他們最好的價錢去買他們每天捉到最大最好的漁穫,他們通常都會把最好的海産留給我,所以在我的餐廳裏你不會找到次等的食物。漁農每天會給我供應龍蝦、生蠔、巨蝦及魚類。海鮮當然是越大的越好,我們買的全部都是最大的海產!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">E:可以介紹一下加利西亞的烹調方法嗎?</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B:我們的煮食都是用最簡單的方法,用最簡單的醃料、最少的醬汁,加上很傳統、很自家的煮法。加利西亞海鮮的質素是全西班牙最好的,但是很多海鮮都不容易去捉,例如鬼爪螺,每年就有很多人因為捕捉牠們而意外喪生。以前是我的媽媽主理這餐廳的廚房,大概七年前我與我的姊姊就接手了,但我們都是用我媽媽從前的食譜。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">E:你可以教我們怎樣去挑選海鮮嗎?</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">B:你要看牠的顏色,例如我們的這個大蝦,牠的體積很巨型,色澤鮮豔,看上去很有力量,這種質素就是平時在一般市場找不到的。鬼爪螺呢,很多人以為越長越好,其實是越肥短越好。長的是好,但是長通常都相對比較瘦,所以短而粗壯的是最好的。總括來說,從海鮮的顏色都可以知道質素啦!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Berto 與他的姊姊一起經營這間餐廳,我們在這裏品嚐了包括了許多不同海鮮的 tasting menu,由鮮青口沙律開始,接著是自家製麵包配道地橄欖油、加利西亞著名的蛋餅,還有加利西亞本地生蠔、吞拿魚他他、鬼爪螺、炭燒元貝、蟶子、鳥蛤(一種歐洲的蜆)、大蜆,最後是龍蝦沙律及蒜蓉橄欖油炒龍蝦,這對我來說絶對是前所未試過的海鮮盛宴!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">d'Berto 位於 O Grove 小鎮,距離加利西亞 Albarino 酒區的首府 Cambados 大約30分鐘車程。O Grove 鄰近的 A Toxa 小島是當地著名的 SPA 渡假勝地,附近整個地區都滿佈漂亮的小漁村及海灘。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">如果你是 fine dining 的粉絲,這間餐廳是你到西班牙旅遊時絶不能錯過的一站!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">D'Berto Restaurante</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">地址:av. Teniente Domínguez 84 36980 O Grove</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">電話:+34 986 73 34 47</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">電郵:dberto.info@icloud.com</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="mailto:dberto.info@icloud.com"></a></span><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/pages/DBerto-Restaurante/275745462471887</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmexM0ag0Gej5_iljgznzTwr3PCafU3NZneO0k2NUhlh93Kp3hrtrEMtpR_F05DBomuSmCEaQlufuyMy9dEMzClNABY2XSZgbdwuQtun2HRm4Me_oUlW9ui-d-PMOjKOfumoQ3QoqdwDj/s1600/DSC_0448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmexM0ag0Gej5_iljgznzTwr3PCafU3NZneO0k2NUhlh93Kp3hrtrEMtpR_F05DBomuSmCEaQlufuyMy9dEMzClNABY2XSZgbdwuQtun2HRm4Me_oUlW9ui-d-PMOjKOfumoQ3QoqdwDj/s1600/DSC_0448.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh mussels salade dressed with white vinaigrette</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warm and refreshing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkPhovUcAmwgvirhM07fwi-lTnqIzj3JOK3sUo42R3uBbkrrLT_pBdg7DjcE8pvTDq-WSPGrfIt5lPf3_R4CuWQsFq5IU8YYkg0zRQHfw4lXz9aeoT_FCPR2ppLVgzRXrhjhYia-gOvoP/s1600/_MG_0951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkPhovUcAmwgvirhM07fwi-lTnqIzj3JOK3sUo42R3uBbkrrLT_pBdg7DjcE8pvTDq-WSPGrfIt5lPf3_R4CuWQsFq5IU8YYkg0zRQHfw4lXz9aeoT_FCPR2ppLVgzRXrhjhYia-gOvoP/s1600/_MG_0951.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empanadas, a Galician specialty. The fillings are made with lobster and hake (left), and tuna caught from the northern Spain, or 'bonito del norte' (right)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5BmgcawSEIXq3LiYid1Q8S7gwPQvEmhsblFbsduOulYlxhzWkelExnvbXskQHMq4eMt1PQwqpu3WA5TmbmX_Gl1B5CmSaTqlBezrDsF0pl7VwHS9rs6QGYYzjcMxmv563dRU9Lh3LiDe/s1600/DSC_0450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5BmgcawSEIXq3LiYid1Q8S7gwPQvEmhsblFbsduOulYlxhzWkelExnvbXskQHMq4eMt1PQwqpu3WA5TmbmX_Gl1B5CmSaTqlBezrDsF0pl7VwHS9rs6QGYYzjcMxmv563dRU9Lh3LiDe/s1600/DSC_0450.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galician oysters. Creamy and rich, with a tannic and fresh after-taste of gin. Texture is crisp, rich. Will pair well with a stronger, fuller body Albarino. Caught in Cambados.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuna Tartare, served with seasalt, paprika, and black pepper on the side. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXwqr1ZjoyC7U-GCQDlLTHJacMny18YMetUcjoogF29Q_CZkEm_GTUglI8d6RKuNaLZrd_tRDDniwMyutTPNuOjb4P5advbIlIQR2DVqUFhGyJVOwYNKYwuhlcNHWspIfe8EpmktQQeFCu/s1600/_MG_0964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXwqr1ZjoyC7U-GCQDlLTHJacMny18YMetUcjoogF29Q_CZkEm_GTUglI8d6RKuNaLZrd_tRDDniwMyutTPNuOjb4P5advbIlIQR2DVqUFhGyJVOwYNKYwuhlcNHWspIfe8EpmktQQeFCu/s1600/_MG_0964.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This tuna tartare is a family recipe.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi151vANm0qin061lETVFbOXMyi4_HnaohF8oclefchyphenhyphenfo6QGBT7OyK0k120sazm7pOjQcEkfFmHWAGB_GqJmIz3bbTqfW7BNHZ5o0vgM8IkxQ31sHMp9AXujTM2xc-txEJ1KkMX37nSNuU/s1600/_MG_0970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi151vANm0qin061lETVFbOXMyi4_HnaohF8oclefchyphenhyphenfo6QGBT7OyK0k120sazm7pOjQcEkfFmHWAGB_GqJmIz3bbTqfW7BNHZ5o0vgM8IkxQ31sHMp9AXujTM2xc-txEJ1KkMX37nSNuU/s1600/_MG_0970.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Percebes. No visit to Galicia is complete without tasting their Percebes. These are some of the fattest ones I have seen and tasted. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJN4q0Qpnvy-e_qAuMtpkg6gY27_Zzb2nXAMISLoh83w-bRWchOevMUF9IkqyBy4uRM4V1ws37AFBhidZ12KXsz78ZlatOdEeGCVENvhMdTYER__G7QqAT-popBQZeeCRelCiNlpLUqdQ/s1600/_MG_0987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJN4q0Qpnvy-e_qAuMtpkg6gY27_Zzb2nXAMISLoh83w-bRWchOevMUF9IkqyBy4uRM4V1ws37AFBhidZ12KXsz78ZlatOdEeGCVENvhMdTYER__G7QqAT-popBQZeeCRelCiNlpLUqdQ/s1600/_MG_0987.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very tender Scallops, or Zamburinas.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGlRhSB4wgiHxFyCu4LE4CPI6p_W-QnBWRFL_TBl_mM_ekf0ZIrITh-Kum1UK7Jj7C2am_RQ-HYUrGeg4Za28eJm8lWJ-Ze9BjjUgTEfFsAdo1aFPk4Iny5JurTgxv0s8ir6G71hAY39L/s1600/DSC_0463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGlRhSB4wgiHxFyCu4LE4CPI6p_W-QnBWRFL_TBl_mM_ekf0ZIrITh-Kum1UK7Jj7C2am_RQ-HYUrGeg4Za28eJm8lWJ-Ze9BjjUgTEfFsAdo1aFPk4Iny5JurTgxv0s8ir6G71hAY39L/s1600/DSC_0463.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steamed Razor Clams. Sweet, tender and delicate. There is no sauce to this dish, just pure organic goodness from the sea, a reflection of the Galician culinary principal. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_03b4nPgvoLLV-VP6729clNjByKioyl83REYGVBf2xfRjpgtW0Z5tYc01ZvNQ21ywzYTfTPmvlOY0MRNqXaRwIO4E4aMbJQxUMltODOOHwaggw1XhW9JVURdKtLDlsaNZdGonEV0514rf/s1600/DSC_0466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_03b4nPgvoLLV-VP6729clNjByKioyl83REYGVBf2xfRjpgtW0Z5tYc01ZvNQ21ywzYTfTPmvlOY0MRNqXaRwIO4E4aMbJQxUMltODOOHwaggw1XhW9JVURdKtLDlsaNZdGonEV0514rf/s1600/DSC_0466.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lobster Salpicon, with tomatos and egg whites. Most usually used with monkfish but is expressed here with fresh boiled lobster. The dressing is very light, with generous pieces of lobster meat that are fresh and crisp. The sweetness of the lobster meat is further brought out by the chopped tomatoes. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lobster sauteed with garlic, served with lobster eggs. The flavour is strong, powerful, and rich. The entire meal is built up to this final course that is absolutely unforgettable.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dessert and dessert wine from Ourense. Nose: candied fruit, hint of citrus peel. Palette: smooth, fresh, but not syrupy. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7X-byMH6zotUyqhfWoo56-i-aMN_HCTNdP8ziPpW8G3pzeYCwNIFAPQly0a9Jbr2kKJ83EJzp03fgme0dwhDPMgkEgyYKZsZvX25Diq0Ii_pfpJAgN50uZKr17Px1hqW1mzuWQXqUtZaS/s1600/DSC_0477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7X-byMH6zotUyqhfWoo56-i-aMN_HCTNdP8ziPpW8G3pzeYCwNIFAPQly0a9Jbr2kKJ83EJzp03fgme0dwhDPMgkEgyYKZsZvX25Diq0Ii_pfpJAgN50uZKr17Px1hqW1mzuWQXqUtZaS/s1600/DSC_0477.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Berto explaining the colour and texture of the razor clam</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Berto pointing out the ideal shape of a percebes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recommended wine at d'Berto, produced by some of the best Albarino producers of the region.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marisol, me, Berto</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0O Grove, Pontevedra, Spain42.4959962 -8.865141799999946742.4842882 -8.8853117999999469 42.5077042 -8.8449717999999464tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-25143875014129194122014-12-07T16:35:00.000+01:002014-12-15T09:40:20.982+01:00Rashaville: rural tourism, an immersion in country life in Serbia <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">After my concert in Belgrade, Serbia, I had the immense fortune of meeting Russ Stanoylovic, a larger-than-life character who now runs a rustic ranch and hotel outside Belgrade with his amicable Chinese wife. Through my agent, Srdjan Stojanovic, who is no less a legendary character in the Serbian music circle, I was arranged a visit to Russ' ranch, affectionately called Rashaville. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Some 60km outside Belgrade, or about an hour of scenic drive, a large banner spans across the country road </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">announcing our arrival. The ranch and guesthouses are split on both sides of the road, with the barn and ranch on one side, and the houses, gardens, library and restaurant on another. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">A small wooden hut stood sentry at the entrance of the ranch, which was a replica of the house Russ' grandparents once lived. Inside the ranch, there were horses and goats, ponies and donkies; there was even a children's theatre, for the amusement of adults (and animals). Next to the stable is an apartment for guests. I was told that the owner had done all the landscaping himself!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Russ is a collector of every curios and relics, and I was led to his library which houses his treasure chest. The restaurant room was a cozy dining cottage, where we were served delightful local dishes prepared fresh from the kitchen next door. The Misses took notice of a Chinese visitor and immediately wrapped up some Chinese dumplings, which went down very well with the local white wine. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The lunch lasted as long as the afternoon. The musicians, who sang me a repertoire of Serbian country and popular tunes, serenaded me all the way to the door. I would have loved to stay here for a few days if not for having to catch a flight. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Rural or agricultural tourism has taken on a new vibe these years. Many travellers now look for ways to escape the throes of city living and yearn for the simplicity and fragrance of rural landscape. Rashaville allows the visitors a nostalgic experience into this rural life of the past. Set in endless acres of natural landscape, Rashaville organizes excursions and activities in and outside the ranch, while the guesthouses provide warm and cozy environment for a perfect getaway from city hustles. Call ahead for booking and directions. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Visit official homepage at <a href="http://www.rasinoselo.com/engleski.html">http://www.rasinoselo.com/engleski.html</a> (in English) for more information. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Official video</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Want to know what Serbian sounds like? Here's an interview with Russ on Serbian TV.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/p63zefc6XA0?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Rudovci, Serbia44.366667 20.41666699999996144.321266 20.335985999999963 44.412068 20.49734799999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-70386813236094269682014-10-03T12:30:00.000+02:002015-01-13T09:48:01.125+01:00Studenica Monastery, one of four UNESCO Heritage Sites in Serbia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">It is staggering to see how many <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Serbian_Orthodox_monasteries" target="_blank">Orthodox monasteries there are in Serbia</a></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">. Except for one or two modern structures, these monasteries all originated from the Middle Ages, built roughly from 12th century to 16th century. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">It is said that Christianity was spread to Serbia around the 4th century. The most important monastery standing now is the Studenica (pronounced as Stu-den-ni-tcha), some 200km south of Belgrade, the capital. Only part of the route is covered by the highway network; most of it winds about small towns and villages, and mountain gorges. My advice is to </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">break up this distance and stay a night (or two) at a nearby city Kraljevo. From Kraljevo, the journey only takes a little over one hour.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The Studenica Monastery was built in the 12th century by Stefan Nemanja, who was the Grand Prince of Serbia at that time (equivalence to a Lord) and was one of the most important figures of Serbian history and culture. He is remembered as the founder of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nemanji%C4%87_dynasty" target="_blank">Nemanjić Dynasty</a>, the most important ruling house in southeastern Europe; his contributions in science and education still resonates today.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Studenica is listed as an </span><a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/RS/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">UNESCO Heritage Site</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">, one of four in Serbia. The most important feature, besides the grand architecture and stunning use of white-and-grey marble, is the fresco painting inside the church, many of which originated since the foundation of the church in 12th century. By the 16th century, restoration was being done by painting over the existing drawing, all of which had since fallen off. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The dome also fell down during the Turkish invasion (Serbia was under Turkish Ottoman rule for four hundred years). As this region is prone to incessant rain and humidity, the paintings were severely affected. It is interesting to note that the Byzantium blue was a more expensive colour in the Middle Ages than the gold.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">As the inside of the church is quite dark (Orthodox churches favour small windows) photography was quite impossible; it was also not allowed. I managed to take a few shots, with the permission of the residing monk, who imposed strict behavior of respect while visiting the inner church (e.g., no slouching with hands inside pocket). Follow this </span><a href="http://www.maletic.org/serbian-frescoes" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">link to see close-ups of the fresco</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">A handful of monks still serves in this monastery, with a few more in training. There is a country inn and restaurant nearby. Reserve a good half-day to enjoy and take in this breath-taking monument.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Official website (in English): </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.manastirstudenica.rs/indexeng.html">http://www.manastirstudenica.rs/indexeng.html</a></span><br />
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塞爾維亞所擁有的東正教教堂、修導院多得真有點令人難以置信,<wbr></wbr>當中除了有幾座是新的建築外,其實絶大部份都是中古時期的產物,<wbr></wbr>大概由12到16世紀興建,<wbr></wbr>而我們相信基督教大概於4世紀的時候已經傳到塞爾維亞了。</div>
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斯圖代尼察修道院 (Studenica Monastery) 就是其中一間最著名的修導院,<wbr></wbr>距離首都貝爾格萊德南面大概200公里。<wbr></wbr>從首都到斯圖代尼察修道院的路程只有部份設有公路,<wbr></wbr>其餘的都是經過小鎮、小村莊的路。我建議用兩天去完成這段路,<wbr></wbr>中間可以在鄰近城市Kraljevo 過夜,之後從Kraljevo 到修道院只需一個多小時。</div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">斯圖代尼察修道院於</span><span lang="EN-US">12</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">世紀由塞爾維亞的大王公</span><span lang="EN-US">Stefan Nemanja </span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">興建的,他是塞爾維亞文化及歴史上其中一位最重要的人物,<wbr></wbr>他亦建立了歐洲東南部最重要的皇朝</span><span lang="EN-US">Nemanjić Dynasty</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">,他當時對科學及教育的貢獻至今仍然被人民歌頌。</span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">斯圖代尼察修道院已被列入聯合國教科文組織遺產,<wbr></wbr>成為塞爾維亞四個遺產中的其中一個。<wbr></wbr>除了主建築物內灰白相間的雲石是參觀的重點外,<wbr></wbr>教堂內的壁畫亦是一個不能錯過的重點,這裏很多的壁畫 (</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">fresco painting</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">) </span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">都</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">是由</span><span lang="EN-US">12</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">世紀修導院建立的時候一直保存到<wbr></wbr>現在。修導院在</span><span lang="EN-US">16</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">世紀進行過一次翻新工程,<wbr></wbr>由於其中一些壁畫的顏料已經剝落,<wbr></wbr>翻新的時候就在原有的畫作中補上新的顏料。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">塞爾維亞曾被土耳其奧斯曼帝國 (</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">Ottoman)</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;"> 統治了四百年,<wbr></wbr>而在土耳其人入侵的時候這座修導院的圓拱屋頂就曾經倒塌下來。<wbr></wbr>由於這個地區時常下雨並十分潮濕,建築物上很多顏料都不能保存。<wbr></wbr>而更有趣的是在中古時期,這種拜占庭藍色原來是比黃金更昂貴的!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">由於東正教的教堂一般都採用較細小的窗戶,<wbr></wbr>這個教堂裏面其實頗黑的,在這種光線下拍照基本上是不可能;<wbr></wbr>其實教堂亦是不容許拍照的。<wbr></wbr>我在住在那裏的一名僧人的同意下拍了幾張相片,<wbr></wbr>這連結可以看到更多壁畫的近照。</span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">有好幾位僧侶仍然在這修導院裏服務,當中更有人些是在受訓中。<wbr></wbr>修導院的附近有一間旅館及餐廳,<wbr></wbr>可以供遊客在修導院的半天參觀後稍作休息。</span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">斯圖代尼察修道院的官方綱頁</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">英語</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">:</span><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.manastirstudenica.rs/indexeng.html" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">http://www.<wbr></wbr>manastirstudenica.rs/indexeng.<wbr></wbr>html</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Studenica Monastery, 116, Brezova 36343, Serbia43.4867397 20.5316754000000443.4852997 20.52915390000004 43.4881797 20.53419690000004tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-9096530547508565172014-10-03T09:51:00.000+02:002014-12-15T09:41:18.945+01:00Oyster farm in Morlaix, Brittany, Northwest France<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Brittany is well-known for its seafood, particularly Creuse oysters. Creuses from the northern coast is exported all over the world, and could fetch handsome prices in select supermarkets and restaurants. Are they worth the price you pay? - or are you simply paying middlemen? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The famous oyster farms are located in Cancale, about 70km north of Rennes, the capital of Brittany. It is a great place not just for the regular Creuse - I will get to that in another post. However, in recent years, it has become a bustling tourist town, so I head out in search for more hidden spots along the</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> coast. I thus came upon the town of Morlaix, far west of Brittany and deep into the Breton countryside.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I first came to Morlaix years ago. It sits in the <em>Finistère</em> <em>department</em> of France, literally meaning the region at the end of the land. The old town is one of the most beautiful, lined with old half-timbered houses, Romanesque church and cathedral, a grand Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), all basking in the shadow of a meticulously preserved viaduct. Used as a railway bridge, it was built in 1861 entirely out of stones. All these are as impressive as they sound, but one stop I needed to make: a small restaurant on the old cobblestone street called Bar de Viarmes that serves 9 oysters with a glass of wine, bread, and Breton butter for just 7€. Needless to say, this was just a starter for me.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This sign points to the well known half-timbered houses in Morlaix</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Breton butter is made with sea salt farmed from the surrounding ocean. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Morlaix was originally conceived as a port, as it was built on the shore of the Morlaix River. Heading north outside Morlaix towards the sea, we used the road that runs parallel to the river. In about 7km, we reached the mouth of the river and spotted another smaller islet on the east, the River Dourduff. It seemed unusually quiet but well-appointed, and so we decided to investigate further - and we hit the jackpot.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Tucked in a remote corner of the village, away from the beautiful row of houses, is an oyster farm, completely clueless, completely unnoticeable. Once inside, there was only one word needed in our vocabulary: oysters. The freshest, largest, tastiest oysters at the best prices I have ever seen. We ordered up dozens of Creuse No. 0 (the largest of the type), surrendering mere 6€ for each dozen. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Two things I will eternally miss about Brittany, its oysters and its butter. This, to me, is a little corner of heaven. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Morlaix lies 60km northeast of Brest, the second city of Brittany. <a href="http://www.brest.aeroport.fr/en/" target="_blank">Brest is served by a well-equipped airport</a> and direct flights are available from the UK, Italy, France, Spain, and even Greece and Morocco.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;">Official site: <a href="http://www.brittanytourism.com/discover-brittany/hidden-gems/carantec-et-la-baie-de-morlaix">http://www.brittanytourism.com/discover-brittany/hidden-gems/carantec-et-la-baie-de-morlaix</a></span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Morlaix, France48.577613 -3.828227999999967348.493602 -3.9895894999999673 48.661623999999996 -3.6668664999999674tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-91841005384982824892014-10-01T22:57:00.000+02:002015-10-11T02:25:29.012+02:00Bulnes, one of the remotest villages in Europe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Here's another suggestion for your next Spanish vacation: the province of Asturias. After you've had enough seafood and beaches along the Mediterranean Sea or the Bay of Biscay, the breathtaking Asturian mountains will surely give you a whole new perspective of Spain. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Almost parallel to the coastline of northern Spain is the mountain ranges of Naranjo de Bulnes (the Orange of Bulnes). No idea why it alludes to orange as neither the colour nor the fruit is seen in the mountains, but Bulnes must be one of the most extraordinary destinations for tourists.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Several superlatives must be mentioned: Bulnes is one of the most remote villages in Europe, and it can now be reached by</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> one of the most improbably constructed trams. Not until 14 years ago was this tram line built; prior to that there are only donkey trails that could reach the village. With this newly built tram, Bulnes is now a popular destination for tourists visiting the Asturian mountains.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I </span><a href="http://ernestso.blogspot.com.es/2014/01/asturias.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">last visited the region</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> a few years ago, and I am once again retracing the same windy mountain roads with the same fascination. The sheer limestone reaches up to the sky, barely allowing a footpath - much less a funicular - to scale up to the top. Getting off the funicular at the village of Bulnes, you will be standing at over 2400ft above sea level!\</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Several short hiking trails start from the village, which take you to various panoramic vantage points. The village has no traffic; a stream cuts through it with a small church and some restaurants cafes on both sides. There are reportedly 34 residents in the village, so I think forming a Bulnes Philharmonic is out of the question.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Start your journey in Asturias from Cangas de Onis, on the western side of the mountain range Picos de Europa. Cangas de Onis is the tourist central of the region, crowded with hotels, restaurants, shops and activity centres (horse-riding, kayaking, etc.) I'll review the Parador of Cangas de Onis on a separate post.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">From there, set your GPS to Poncebos, where the funicular station is. The tram runs every 30 minutes, lasting about 8 minutes. Note the time of the last train coming down from Bulnes, at either 6pm or 8pm depending on the season. Asturian cuisine is a subject worth the length of two bibles, but don't leave without trying the cabrales cheese, which is the famous Spanish blue cheese.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;">Funicular schedule (in English): <a href="http://www.alsa.es/en/buy-and-schedules/regional/asturias/bulnes-funicular-railway/">http://www.alsa.es/en/buy-and-schedules/regional/asturias/bulnes-funicular-railway/</a></span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com033554 Bulnes, Asturias, Spain43.233332999999988 -4.816667000000052217.711298499999987 -46.125261000000052 68.755367499999991 36.491926999999947tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-22291301459591982012014-10-01T21:08:00.000+02:002014-12-22T08:50:44.263+01:00Editorial Boileau - one of the greatest Spanish music publishers of all time<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Editorial Boileau, or affectionately known simply as Boileau, has been and is still one of the most well-known and important music publishers in the world. Based in Barcelona, it champions the publishing of Spanish music over the last 100 years. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Pianists and musicians will not be foreign to its books with the signature light beige cover. It is also one of the most easily readable and durable scores I have come across. I have amassed a collection of its earlier publications as well as newer ones. This past July, as an incentive to some </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">visiting students from Hong Kong, we took a tour to the one and only Boileau shop.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Editorial Boileau was founded by Alessio Boileau Bernasconi in 1904. Arriving from Italy, he first opened a printer's shop and later in 1913 expanded into engraving and publishing music. Age-old engraving tools can still be found in the present premise, which are testaments to the time-consuming and painstaking task of producing music scores in the past. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">A rarity these days, Boileau is still family-run. Alessio's three daughters, Elvira, Mercedes and Rosario lovingly runs the house with the grandchildren. Granddaughter Yolanda and g</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">reat-granddaughter</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Marta, with whom I have come to know and collaborate over the years, led the nostalgic visit through the same shop space that they have known since childhood. In one of the rooms now stocked with boxes and boxes of music there used to be regular concerts where composers such as Mompou would present the latest works. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">The house has meticulously preserved many of the old tools used to engrave and prepare a music score. New machineries were installed in recent years to combat with the bigger demands, but the tedious process is no less easier. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">In an age when digital downloads make publishing a debilitatingly difficult business, old houses such as Boileau strive on the passion of musicians and music lovers. Even with the help of modern technology, producing music is a laborious task. It is one of the most overlooked items of luxury we can hold in our hands. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I love how old publishing houses always have a piano available at their shop. I remember the old Alphonse Leduc in Paris having an old Bechstein once used by Poulenc and Messiaen, and here in Boileau I often try out and sight-read music on their piano. If you are a musician, you should definitely put Boileau on your visit list next time you are in Barcelona. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Boileau shop: 287 Carrer de Provença, 287, 08037 Barcelona</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Marta can be reached at </span><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="mailto:boileau@boileau-music.com"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">boileau@boileau-music.com</span></a>. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grandaughter Yolanda and great-granddaughter Marta explained at length the printing process.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Carrer Provença, 287, 08037 Barcelona, Barcelona, Spain41.3965982 2.163757000000032341.2060107 1.8410335000000324 41.5871857 2.4864805000000323tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-91902331869409589092014-09-10T08:55:00.002+02:002014-12-15T10:17:39.839+01:00Interview with Mark Ainley<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4KL1QmRGLp4WP7djI9f_kkEn4tK902RrX2V9QcH3XRSP8d646qdIIJpxqUUxUPxDj0qGKi71ik1kEnBZSs2iLp0DBfrGDdySNM7dCpZLm_fzjZDFWkjDgIeRKQCcKPBSIoMO-1OfTqAF/s1600/302497_10150310262644674_1123452549_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4KL1QmRGLp4WP7djI9f_kkEn4tK902RrX2V9QcH3XRSP8d646qdIIJpxqUUxUPxDj0qGKi71ik1kEnBZSs2iLp0DBfrGDdySNM7dCpZLm_fzjZDFWkjDgIeRKQCcKPBSIoMO-1OfTqAF/s1600/302497_10150310262644674_1123452549_n.jpg" height="400" width="281" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">F</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">ew personalities in the classical music world garner as much serious attention as Mark Ainley, whose daily updates on his Facebook page "The Piano Files" demand thoughtful consideration from piano-philes all over the world. If there is ever an internet jukebox for the greatest piano performances, it would have to be Mark's brilliant selections. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Facebook has become a successful platform for sharing knowledge, useful or otherwise, and our generation has come</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> to depend upon it for everything from news reports to wardrobe choice. One of Facebook's successes comes from its concise delivery of updates where within the time of finishing a macchiato shot we could read about grandma's latest recipes, Horowitz' fetish for bowties and everything in between. However, not everything can be said on Facebook, or at least not fully. I caught Mark mid-flight between Japan and Canada to talk about things you don't find on his Facebook updates. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Now Tokyo to Vancouver isn't exactly a stone's throw away from each other, so do yourself a favor and pour a big cup of coffee. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E - Ernest</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">M - Mark</span><br />
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</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: Describe your specialty.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">M: My special
interest is historical recordings of great pianists, primarily recordings made
in the first half of the 20th century (or earlier or later in some cases) -
recordings that show a different side of piano playing than is the current
norm.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">E: </span>The Golden Age
pianists - we love them, but many modern day listeners still find them
inaccessible. Without going at long length (as this topic surely does warrant a
doctoral dissertation) what is so alluring about the Golden Age pianists?<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">M: I’m not
sure that all modern-day listeners find them inaccessible - it depends on the
individual; I’ve been pleased to meet some university students recently who
were fascinated by these recordings and very open-minded to what they were
hearing interpretatively. For some, the poorer sound quality of earlier
recordings can be off-putting, and that’s a shame - people still watch
black-and-white movies, or even silent films, because there is something of
artistic importance to experience, and in fact the piano sound in older
recordings (record scratches notwithstanding) is actually more faithful to how
a real piano sounds than most modern digital recordings.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">As far as the playing goes, it can be so
radically different to what we are used to that some of these performances can
indeed be challenging to ears trained in the modern era of performance
practice. We live now in an age where technical precision in the form of ‘right
notes’ is more important than the emotional and spiritual message communicated
in an individual way - the competition circuit and modern recorded technology
both have had a role to play here - and so listening to interpretations that
are so markedly unconventional from what is accepted today, and with occasional
wrong notes too (since early record technology didn’t allow for editing), can
take some adjustment and some of these performances don’t immediately appeal to
everyone.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">But</span> <span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">it is certainly worth the effort: after
all, why would we not want to hear pupils of Liszt perform, people who learned
actual pianistic techniques and interpretative insights from that legendary
composer and pianist himself? Or students of students of Chopin (unfortunately,
none of Chopin’s students made records), or people who were coached by Brahms
and Clara Schumann, or composers themselves like Rachmaninoff, who was also a
terrific pianist? Listening to how a composer plays their own works - and
recognizing how differently many people might play those same pieces today -
ought to be of prime importance for anyone who claims to want to explore music
(though, of course, we mustn’t discount the reality that any interpreter could
indeed</span> <span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">find valid possibilities that composers themselves were unaware of). The
Golden Age pianists had techniques of tone production, phrasing, voicing, and
timing that seem to have been lost to all but a handful of pianists, and so we
have much to learn by hearing their playing with our own ears as opposed to
simply reading about their playing or theories about performance practice.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">E: </span>When you approach
a recording for the first time, what is the first thing you listen for - tone
quality, interpretation, technical brilliance, or other aspects of piano
playing?<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">M: It’s a
combination of these factors, and there isn’t one thing that I listen for,
though perhaps one thing will jump out at me above all else. With Alfred Cortot,
what I first hear is the tone, phrasing, and rhythm; with Josef Hofmann, also
the tone, along with his unique terraced voicing; with Dinu Lipatti, the
balanced metrics, consistent voicing, focused tone, and logical but heartfelt
approach. Unfortunately ‘technical brilliance’ has become an end in itself as
opposed to a means to an end. We don’t praise an actor for saying all the words
in a script, so why do we speak highly of a pianist for playing all of the
notes unless they do so in a way that brings something significant to their
interpretation? Wouldn’t it be ridiculous to comment on an actor being great
because he uttered all of the words that had been written in the text? It’s
absurd - but people do that with pianists. I would say that a pianist who plays
all the right notes but not with a beautiful sound, fluid phrasing, and
consistent voicing actually has an incomplete technique: it’s like being able
to say the words on the page but not do so with feeling, in character, or with
an appropriate tone of voice - that’s not acting, it’s reading. And why should
one label pianists as having ‘poor technique’ if, in an inspirational moment,
they drop some notes while communicating something emotional? Unfortunately,
many pianists today are like amateurish television actors with grossly
exaggerated mannerisms, while the great pianists of the past are much like
classically trained British actors, who could subtly raise an eyebrow or
enunciate a certain syllable in a particular way that discreetly adds an interpretative
twist to what they are saying.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">E: </span>You are definitely
a seasoned concert goer, and I am a pianist who enjoys a vast repertoire. Why
do you think a large part of the repertoire (such as those of Medtner,
Godowsky, etc) is avoided by most commercial pianists?<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: It’s a
challenging situation - all music was once new, wasn’t it? Certain things
stayed in fashion, and those things generally continue to be in vogue.
Sometimes a pianist will go out on a limb to program works that others ignore,
and those works might become popular again, although the pianist’s career might
not go as well in the short term: Marcelle Meyer revived Rameau back in the
‘30s and recorded his complete works in the ‘50s, when prior to that time only
a work or two had been arranged and played by Romantic pianists, and the same
goes for Scarlatti, who was largely ignored until pianists like Meyer,
Casadesus, and Horowitz started programming his delightful sonatas. Today, at a
time when CD sales and ticket subscriptions are waning, few companies and
promoters want to take a risk on unknown repertoire - Meyer actually had a
difficult time making a career because she insisted on programming some
unpopular repertoire, and it’s surely the same issue today. And yet then some pianists
I know today have the challenge of not being booked because other artists are
playing the same works as them in a given season!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">When it comes to works by Godowsky, it could
be that so few pianists can play his music at all, let alone well! But with
Medtner, there isn’t much of an excuse - he wrote some marvellous music and it
warrants being heard more, as does much else (Chabrier, for example, another
composer that Marcelle Meyer brought back to public attention). Hopefully some
bigger-name artists whose concerts sell well can program some of this unusual
repertoire (Stephen Hough has certainly done well here), even if it’s a bit at
a time, and then hopefully concertgoers will start to be a little more
adventurous. Philip Thomson’s recording of Blumenfeld piano music was a
revelation to many listeners, not only for the stunning playing but for
introducing so much high-quality Romantic music that was all but unknown before
the CD was issued. Imagine how much more wonderful music might be out there! And
it’s also worth remembering that some works aren’t heard for a perfectly good
reason - Chopin wrote some compositions that weren’t his best, and the same is
true of many less-frequently performed works. But it’s worth exploring
less-known repertoire, definitely.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="GoBack"></a><span style="font-size: large;">M: <span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Only
one or two is hard as there are quite a few. One of the most incredible was the
first time I heard Radu Lupu, at the Lucerne Music Festival in about 1991. I
was in Switzerland doing some Lipatti research and was passing through Lucerne
overnight and managed to score a cheap ticket (I was a student back then) and I
couldn’t believe what I heard: his sound just glowed, and I thought ‘this is
how Lipatti and Haskil must have sounded.’ Paul Lewis played all of the
Beethoven Sonatas here in Vancouver a few years ago, and in the final concert,
he held his hands above the keyboard after playing the final notes of Op.111
and the audience was completely still for what seemed like ages - as he moved his
hands away from the piano, it seemed like a wave of energy swept through the
auditorium - I swear I could feel and hear a ‘whoosh’ flow through the space -
and the audience sat spellbound for another 15 seconds or so before the
rapturous applause; I still get goosebumps thinking about it. From the opening
passage Stephen Hough played of the Brahms Second Concerto in Vancouver, you
could sense the entire audience leaning forward to listen, aware that how he
was burnishing the melodic line was different than what one would normally
hear; he held their rapt attention for the entire work. And then there’s
Benjamin Grosvenor, who for me is the most astounding of the big names on the
concert platform today - on New Year’s Eve 2012 in Seattle he played a Rachmaninoff
Second Concerto that left me completely stunned, with the highlighted inner
voices and soaring melodic lines sounding like what one might have heard from a
pianist like Hofmann or Moiseiwitsch. I’ve also heard him elsewhere with
orchestra, in chamber music, and in recital, and each occasion has been
inspiring and memorable. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: Your favorite picks?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: It’s a
tough choice - there are so many that I can think would be an introduction to
great piano playing in historical recordings. One that always stuns the
listener is Dinu Lipatti’s outstanding 1948 recording of Ravel’s “Alborada del
Gracioso” - especially given that stories of Lipatti’s suffering from illness
has led many to believe he wasn’t a strong pianist. This performance is simply
unbelievable: the ‘bite’ to his crisp articulation, the ‘bounce’ that he
achieves throughout, the incredible balance of voices and seamless
phrasing...he plays with such orchestral textures. And then he plays those
graduated glissandi - single-hand glissandi in thirds and fourths - with such
sweep and power, and then the silky-smooth decrescendo on the last one... and
this was done without tape editing! Simply incredible!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then there
is a pianist who has been a favourite of mine for 25 years and who is only just
starting to become more widely known: Marcelle Meyer. This remarkable artist
worked with some of the most important new composers in early 20th-century
Paris, such as Satie, Ravel, Debussy, Stravinsky, and the Group of Six. Her
recordings reveal remarkable sensitivity but with strength and incredibly
refined nuances. One of the first recordings that I heard of her comes from her
amazing 1955 Chabrier cycle (a composer, as mentioned earlier, who deserves to
be performed more widely), a lovely work called ‘Feuillet d’album’. The
phrasing is so exquisitely elastic, the nuances so remarkably refined, and her
tone just beguiling. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">When I
first started exploring historical recordings, I referred to Harold C.
Schonberg’s book The Great Pianists to learn more about the artists who had
made recordings. Schonberg’s praise for Josef Hofmann was absolute, yet records
of his playing were very hard to come by. I would eventually find copies of
concert performances issued by the International Piano Archives in second-hand
record stores and was stunned by what I heard - Schonberg’s detailed
descriptions could only paint a basic sketch of the unique sound world Hofmann
created at the piano. This concert performance of Rachmaninoff’s famous G Minor
Prelude Op.23 No.5 gives an idea of the playing Rachmaninoff had in mind when
he composed his legendary Third Piano Concerto, which he dedicated to Hofmann
(who, unfortunately, never played it). The soaring line in the middle section
seems to be coming from another instrument altogether - absolutely magical! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/rifauIaq6NI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Youri
Egorov was one of the great pianists in the second half of the last century,
and like Lipatti he died tragically young (at the same age of 33). He had a
wonderful tone that was never aggressive or harsh, an incredible sense of
rhythmic momentum, and an amazing capacity to phrase with long lines. This rare
recording made in 1975 when he was only 21 of Bach's Prelude and Fugue No.24 in
B Minor, BWV 869 from Book I of the Well-Tempered Clavier is incredibly bold in
its broad tempo and spacious phrasing that never loses its tensile stability. </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">One of my
all-time favourite recorded performances - one which had a profound impact on
me and my view of the piano world - is a concert recording by the American
pianist Joseph Villa of Rachmaninoff’s Second Sonata. I was sent a cassette of
this 1991 performance by Gregor Benko, founding president of the International
Piano Archives, and wondered why he was sending me a recording of a pianist I’d
never heard of in a work that I never particularly liked. When I heard the
volcanic playing, I was mesmerized: such unbridled passion and incredibly
refined details the likes of which I had never heard. One could be so
overwhelmed by the power of the performance as to overlook the incredibly
sensitive attention to nuance and voicing. I would meet Villa the following
year, a few years before his untimely death, and was stunned by his intellect
and interpretative powers. This interpretation by this virtually unknown
pianist might have disappeared into thin air as did so many concerts through
the ages if an amateur recording<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>device
had not captured the event and preserved it for posterity. </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: Now try to answer the following as quickly as you can.
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Name a historical
person you'd like to invite as house guest.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: Well,
other than some of my favourite pianists that I’ve mentioned, I believe I would
choose Leonardo da Vinci. I have always appreciated his broad perspective of
how things are interrelated. </span></span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">E: What would you rather lose: pianistic power,
taste buds, ability to ever love again?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: Tough
choice. But since I’ve never had much pianistic power anyway (my fingers never
really did what I wanted them to), I would give that away easily - I love food
too much, and I don’t want to become Alberich from Wagner’s Ring Cycle in
renouncing love! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">E: Your least favourite color.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: Hmmm...
I think it would be that shade of green that one finds in hospitals and
elementary schools. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">E: Your least favourite sound.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: A drill
at a dentist’s or construction site - so abrasive! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">E: Bill Gates gives you a billion dollars to do
whatever you want. What's the first thing you do?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: Take a
trip to Europe to start exploring radio station archives in the hopes of
finding lost recordings. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: How old do you see yourself?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">M: I’m 23.
Always. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial Italic","serif";"><o:p><span style="font-family: Georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Still some coffee in your mug? Get more of Mark's interesting picks by subscribing to the Piano Files at </span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ThePianoFilesWithMarkAinley">https://www.facebook.com/ThePianoFilesWithMarkAinley</a></span></span></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-68761883309866534272014-09-10T00:19:00.000+02:002014-12-15T10:23:43.779+01:00Cava tasting at Pere Ventura, Sant Sadurni d'Anoia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OlkDIfkXBUPCz09TTxCYyuXnii7BAKfxjhItAVo5XVmego0v_0b3x7cKn45Gv3iERYroPi2XFUBm4mpiIB1uwNCogK0xMzNGCsC7ZKVTDc9y2kzIBRhp_sDz-a1GrNuuWcHOv0G1Dobn/s1600/Pere+Ventura+01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OlkDIfkXBUPCz09TTxCYyuXnii7BAKfxjhItAVo5XVmego0v_0b3x7cKn45Gv3iERYroPi2XFUBm4mpiIB1uwNCogK0xMzNGCsC7ZKVTDc9y2kzIBRhp_sDz-a1GrNuuWcHOv0G1Dobn/s1600/Pere+Ventura+01.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">No visit to Barcelona is complete without a tour of the Cava vineyards. The province of Catalonia, of which Barcelona is the capital, is a heaven for foodies and wine lovers. The Spanish bubbly - or Cava - is as much the soul of Catalans as Champagne to the French, or Riesling to the Germans; and here in Catalonia, Cava making is regarded as a time-honed family-kept tradition, not a cut-throat branding war that are played out by conglomerates. Here in the Cava country, families and traditions still matter, and pledging allegiance to a wine maker is no less a sport than picking a football team.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">This isn't my first time to Sant Sadurni d'Anoia, the capital of Cava making. I have paid numerous visits to different wineries and vineyards, but one stood out among the rest: </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Pere Ventura. A short distance outside the town proper, is the home of this young cava maker. The year 1992 proudly adorns the wall and its literature, which - I only found out later - modestly hid the fact that Mr. Ventura's family traces back to its wine-making heritage in 19th century, when his great grandfather Manuel Montserrat Font helped produce the first bottles of Cava at Codorniu, a brand familiar to every supermarket wine shelves. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The present house was in fact founded in 1992. Mr. Ventura made no pretext about his work and his brand: Pere Ventura is his name and that's his name you see on every label. At my first visit, I did not make reservations, as is my routine (to see a winery as it presents itself to every visitor, not for special guests or wine critics), and I was met by a young attractive guide Ms. Carla Alentorn who cheerfully led me through its elegant premise into the spacious tasting room. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Their most accessible bottle is the Tresor Reserva. Even at this mass market range it was a cut above the rest: nice and firm body, with butter and floral notes, and excellent acidity. Wanting to explore deeper into the house style, Carla showed me the Cupatge d'Honor 2011. A blend of Xarello (a native grape of the Cava region) and Chardonnay, both being able to accommodate long ageing, this is a wine that is remarkably expressive. <span class="hps">Pale yellow </span><span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">golden hues, very f</span><span class="hps">ine bubbles, intense aromas of ripe fruits and vanilla, the delicate but firm palette came as a surprise - a wonderful surprise. </span></span></span><br />
<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span></span><br />
<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">It was hard to put down the Cupatge d'Honor 2011, but we moved on to Maria del Mar Gran Reserva. This is a blend of all three Cava grapes: Xarello, Macabeo and Parallada, with a dash of Chardonnay, which was only discernible on the palette. Its aroma attests to a much toastier, yeastier, riper expression; on the palette, a complex smoky and toasty note accompanies a creamy, velvety mouthfeel. It evoked the most extraordinary sensations.</span></span><br />
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<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Needless to say, we picked up cases </span></span><span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">of the two. The listed price was 18€ and 16€, respectively, with concessions on purchases in cases. I also purchased a book on Cava with a casual request that Mr. Ventura would autograph it. A few weeks later I returned for more and was delighted to receive the book with a heartfelt autograph. </span></span><br />
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<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span></span><br />
<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Next time when you are in Barcelona, make time to visit Sant Sadurni d'Anoia; and if you could only stop at one winery, make it Pere Ventura.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Official website: <a href="http://www.pereventura.com/en">http://www.pereventura.com/en</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Address: C-243a, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia. It's not the easiest address to find. Study the map before you go. It is opposite another cava maker, Canels & Munne. </span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Pere Ventura, C-243a, 08770 Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Barcelona, Spain41.420386 1.778291999999964941.2105155 1.455568499999965 41.6302565 2.1010154999999648tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-14219255673600904782014-09-08T22:12:00.000+02:002017-03-03T02:21:47.103+01:00With Koji Attwood in Paris<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Pianist and pedagogue Koji Attwood has been a close friend since my Juilliard days, and is still one of the pianists I most admire and respect. When we weren't dissecting the shoulder of a Neapolitan jacket or recipes from previous episode of Iron Chef, we dissertated on the nuances of certain Horowitz recordings or Scriabin harmonies, over Chinese food or industrial strength espressos in Little Italy. When we </span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">recently spent time together in Paris <span class="st">nothing much has changed - granted, we had Salade de Gésiers and <span class="st">Sole Meunière instead - </span>and the routine somewhat repeated itself all over again.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E - Ernest</span></span><br />
<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K - Koji</span></span><br />
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<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Why piano?<br />K: Couldn't tie my shoelaces as a kid.<br /><br />E: Favourite performance of your own and what made it good.<br />K: Tough to pin down, but one that certainly stands out was an opening night collaboration in Minneapolis with Baryshnikov. We were both completely 'on' that night--time stood still--and I was able to appreciate the magic happening before my very eyes, and could sense how intensely the audience was being captivated by the performance, as well. The critic, thankfully also strongly felt along these lines as well, and indicated this in his ensuing review. Of the myriad of performances with Misha, that one certainly stands out in my mind and am still trying to track down a recording!<br /><br />E: Your favorite underrated composer/music.<br />K: Another tough one. I think as a group, there are an incredible amount of really first-rate Russian composers that were active in the late 19th-early 20th century that are now almost completely neglected. Just a few would be Sergei Bortkiewicz, Felix Blumenfeld, Sergei Liapunov, Gyorgy Catoire, and Anatol Liadov. The piano repertoire is truly infinite, even you move just beyond the nifty fifty. Among the 'standard' composers, I feel that Haydn to this day continues to get short shrift. He was in the unenviable position of being stuck between the 'divine' Mozart, and the 'revolutionary' Beethoven (although he was close friends with the former, and taught the latter), and his contributions, which are significant, and music, which is magnificent, gets sadly ignored by and large in the concert hall. He truly was the father of the symphony and string quartet, and for that alone, deserves universal praise.<br /><br />E: Name a hobby of yours that helped or contributed to being a good pianist.<br />K: Dining/cooking. Several pianists (most notably Jorge Bolet and Josef Lhevinne) equated planning out a program with planning out a multi-course meal, and I try to use those same aesthetics. I enjoy talking with chefs as well--they have to deal with that same balancing act of technique/artistry that musicians do. Many musician friends of mine are also first-class foodies, so there must be some sort of correlation there! And as you well know, Jacob Lateiner was absolutely legendary in his gastronomic knowledge.<br /><br />E: In your opinion, what makes a good pianist?<br />K: There is of course, the wonderfully evocative and all-encompassing description by Ferrucio Busoni, but I will paraphrase William Kapell and say: Fingers, brains, heart, imagination, and poetic fury.</span></span><br />
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<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Now answer the following with the first thing that comes to that weird head of yours. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia"; font-size: large;">K: Uh....</span></div>
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<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Name a historical person you'd like to invite as house guest.</span></span></div>
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<span class="st"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: May I invite three? Marco Pierre White can prepare his leek and lobster terrine while Mikhail Tal shows me all his scintillating sacrifices in the midst of Gianni Campagna fitting us for some bespoke suits.<br /> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: What would you rather lose: pianistic power, taste buds, ability to ever love again?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: Since pianistic power is linked to the ability to love, I would have to choose taste buds, but as you know my love of food, that would be a very very cruel thing to do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Your least favourite color.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: Bright Orange</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Your least favourite sound.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: Screeching tires</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">E: Bill Gates gives you a billion to do whatever you want. What's the first thing you do?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: Give half to the Gifted Music School!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">K: Didn't you know? I was actually born in 1815 and was a prominent member of the artistic scene in Paris and Weimar. Liszt could really throw a great soiree.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia"; font-size: large;">Koji has written countless transcriptions for solo piano, one of which I had the honour of recording in my CD. He now teaches at the Gifted Music School in Salt Lake City. In his spare time (or rather wee hours of the night) he loves analyzing chess moves and counting hand stitches on tailored jackets. Find Koji on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pianissimist" target="_blank">Facebook </a>and YouTube. </span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com014 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France48.851937799999988 2.327640200000018948.684788299999987 2.004916700000019 49.019087299999988 2.6503637000000189tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-23821666894094339442014-09-07T02:02:00.000+02:002014-12-15T10:32:31.410+01:00Artisan Glassmaker Gerard Välvet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Right outside of Barcelona are three Cistercian monasteries that form a well-trodden pilgrimage route called the Cistercian Triangle. The three monasteries, Santes Creus, Poblet, and Vallbona de les Monges are each planted in remote small towns steeply rooted in history and agricultural excellence. While visiting Vallbona de les Monges, a town of less than 400 inhabitants, I stumbled across an interesting workshop across from the monastery.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Situated on the "main" road that looked to have been dug and paved in the Middle Ages, the high wall of the monastery </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">stands tall on one side and the other side of this narrow road (just wide enough for a car to pass, and I don't mean the Hummer H3) a few scattered shops. Only one of the doors was opened, so out of curious instinct I stopped and peeked in.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">In a generous but tightly packed space was a large architect's table, an assorted array of tools, and a lot of stained glass panels. Stooped over the table was the glass maker <em>in propria persona</em>, Gerard Välvet. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Gerard is one of the small group of Spanish artisans who champion in traditional glassmaking techniques. Born and bred in Vallbona de les Monges, he studied Fine Arts at the University of Barcelona and had worked in London before returning to his home soil in his present atelier. Since then, he has been creating one-of-a-kind commissions for private clients and exhibitions. I was shown some of his recent works that range from abstract designs to provocative Warhol-like pieces, and I was completely mesmerized. Never have I been this close to stained glass panels; seeing how light flirts with the colours of the glass, I find a medium of expression that is refreshing and modernistic, and as vivid as imagination. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Gerard is available to take commissions. Just make sure kids are not playing baseball outside your window: they don't come cheap, and dearer still is the painstaking process in creating each one of these panels. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Contact Gerard Välvet here: </span><a href="mailto:gerard@vitrallers.com"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">valvet@marchvalvet.com</span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Official website: </span><a href="http://www.marchvalvet.com/"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">http://www.marchvalvet.com/</span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Vallbona de les Monges is well worth a visit. Find the monastery, get to the tourist's entrance, Gerard's atelier is across and a few doors down the same cobble-stone street; or simply type in 'Vitrallers' on Google Map.</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com025268 Vallbona de les Monges, Lleida, Spain41.5251965 1.088852599999995641.5192525 1.0787675999999957 41.5311405 1.0989375999999955tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-76953795653246471982014-09-06T01:07:00.000+02:002014-12-15T10:41:15.212+01:00Tête-à-tête with Luis Aragunde, Mayor of Cambados, Galicia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">My two concert trips to Cambados in Galicia (northwest Spain) had me totally convinced: not only is this truly an Albariño wine capital, it is also a seafood heaven. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I also had the good fortune of making some new friends here, among them the honorable mayor of Cambados. He was one burly, imposing man only countered by a gentleness and humour rarely wonted from a man of his stature. His quiet manners masked the deep love he has for his hometown. </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">During our parting lunch at a rural country house, we sat down side by side and talked about Cambados. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">兩次到西班牙西北部加利西亞省坎瓦多斯小鎮的旅程徹底的把我說服<wbr></wbr>了 —— 她不單是出產 Albariño 葡萄酒的著名重鎮外,她更是海鮮美食的天堂!</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">我很幸運地在坎瓦多斯認識了許多新朋友,<wbr></wbr>當中更包括坎瓦多斯的市長 Luis Aragunde 先生。 Luis Aragunde 先生是一位德高望重的謙謙君子,<wbr></wbr>那天他帶我到一間由田園大宅改建成的漂亮酒店吃過午餐後,<wbr></wbr>我們就在泳池邊坐下喝咖啡、詳談他與坎瓦多斯的大小故事,<wbr></wbr>言談間深深地感受到他對他的家鄉無比的愛......</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Luis Aragunde (L)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Ernest So (E)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: I am definitely coming back again. When is the best time to come to Galicia?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Galicia is an interesting region all year round! All the sights and activities have their own colour and character in every season. Summer is of course an important season for us, but the Spring and Fall are equally beautiful. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E. What's one thing that defines Cambados?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Enotourism! Wine tourism is increasingly popular nowadays. Cambados is the capital of Albariño wine and our tourism office helps organize and advises on activities such as visiting wine makers, vineyards, and tastings. In Cambados you can smell our wine culture. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: But one can't drink all day long, even for a wino like myself ...</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Enotourism is but one of the "trinity" of attractions in Cambados; there are also historical monuments and characteristic restaurants. The region is covered with Pazos, or grand manor houses. They are akin to stately homes you find in England or France, filled with history and art. In the town, our restaurants will satisfy even the biggest craving for seafood and fish. We are so closely linked to the sea I can stretch my hand out from the office and catch a fish without looking. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: That's easy for you but mortals like us would have to pay dearly for this!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Well, for a small town of 14,000 we have a super wide variety of restaurants. There are expensive fishes and seafood, certainly, but there are also affordable catch-of-the-day selections. You get top-notch quality mussels and shrimps, for example, for relatively very little money here compared to elsewhere. Doesn't matter what you are paying, we dish out the best seafood you can find.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: I know, I've tried. Too bad I can't bring any of these back to my friends.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Cambados support a huge canning industry as well. You can find a lot of these canned seafood in our shops. They are caught and canned right here in town.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: Well, there is one thing I can brag about coming to Cambados this July: the Festa do Albariño. This Albariño Festival had been a fantastic week. I am actually glad we took time off from all the drinking to be at this rural country house today. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: On average, not that I am ever sober enough to count, the Albariño Festival receives about 200,000 visitors. Granted, it's less than a fraction of a percentage of people in Hong Kong or China but here in a small town like Cambados, this number is astronomical. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: What do you do in Cambados when you're not working?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: Kayaking, and, typical of everyone around here, enjoying wine with friends and family.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">E: Now that I have visited Cambados, you must come to Hong Kong with me. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">L: I will miss the smell of my sea...</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Luis Aragunde (L)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 我很希望可以再到坎瓦多斯來,<wbr></wbr>你認為什麼時候是旅遊加利西亞的最佳時間?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 加利西亞是一個很有意思的地區,<wbr></wbr>一年四季她都有獨特的色彩與個性。<wbr></wbr>當然夏季對我們來說是一個很重要的季節,<wbr></wbr>但是其實春天及秋天亦同樣美麗。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 你可以用一樣東西來代表坎瓦多斯嗎?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 品酒業!品酒圑現在越來越流行,坎瓦多斯身為 <wbr></wbr>Albariño 葡萄酒的重鎮,我們的旅遊中心極力推廣葡萄酒事業,<wbr></wbr>他們亦會給旅客提供酒莊參觀、品酒等活動,<wbr></wbr>在坎瓦多斯你一定可以感受到我們的葡萄酒文化!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 但是我們好像不應整天都只是喝酒,即使我其實很想這樣做...<wbr></wbr>...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 品酒對愛酒人仕是一項很好的活動,<wbr></wbr>但是坎瓦多斯亦有很多極具吸引力的景點,譬如多座歴史古跡、<wbr></wbr>著名餐廳、美麗的海灣等等。<wbr></wbr>其實坎瓦多斯有的許多古老大宅也是其中一個聞名的原因,<wbr></wbr>跟英國法國的一樣,它們都擁有悠久的歴史及精緻的藝術品。<wbr></wbr>而小鎮裏的餐廳,必定可以滿足到對美食有無比渴望的海鮮發燒友,<wbr></wbr>我們擁有海産豐富的海岸,只要伸手出去就可抓到幾條魚啦!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 哈哈!這可能對你是很容易的事,但是我只是星斗小市民,<wbr></wbr>只怕吃過飯後那張賬單會把我嚇一跳!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 坎瓦多斯這裏有14,000 個居民,絶對不算是小地方,我們當然有不同種類的餐廳,<wbr></wbr>豐儉由人。我們有十分豪華的海鮮餐廳,但我們亦有價錢大眾化的,<wbr></wbr>供應每天新鮮合時的魚穫。就算是這裏最高品質的海鮮,<wbr></wbr>比起其他地方,這裏的收費仍是最化算的啦!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 我知道,我亦試過了,這裏的海鮮應該是我吃過最好的!<wbr></wbr>很可惜我帶不了它們回家!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 坎瓦多斯其實也有很發達的罐頭業,<wbr></wbr>我們就把剛從海裏拿上來的海產馬上放進罐頭,<wbr></wbr>你可以在鎮裏的商店買些罐頭帶回去。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 我來坎瓦多斯某程度上其實是為了今年的 Albariño葡萄酒節,這讓我過了一個很精彩的星期!<wbr></wbr>我亦很高興今天稍停一下跟你來到這所漂亮的大宅。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 雖然葡萄酒時常都令我計算得不太清楚,<wbr></wbr>但是這裏每年的葡萄酒節都吸引到平均二十萬的遊客。<wbr></wbr>我知道這對香港或中國來說只是很少的人,<wbr></wbr>但這數字對坎瓦多斯來說已經是天文數字了!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 在坎瓦多斯你不用工作的時候會做什麼?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 我喜歡划艇,以及像所有坎瓦多斯人一樣,<wbr></wbr>與家人和朋友一起享受葡萄酒。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">E: 好了,你現在邀請我來了坎瓦多斯,我也想邀請你跟我到香港。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L: 那我怕我會捨不得我這個漂亮的海洋......</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-45118736101621483462014-08-17T17:28:00.001+02:002014-12-15T10:42:31.971+01:00Brunei Darussalam<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I had the exceeding fortune of visiting and performing in the country-state of Brunei Darussalam, or quite simply known as Brunei. Geographically situated on Borneo, the third largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea, it shares the island with Malaysia and Indonesia. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">In this small and peaceful country, the majority population of Muslim Malays lives side by side with the Chinese and a significant community of expatriates. While the temperature of hate in the rest of the world has gone up to Pluto, the people here get by with each other like a well-harmonized </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Bach chorale. Never since the time when I lived in Singapore in the '90s have I seen such easy-going mix of ethnicities and cultures; here discrimination and intolerance find no stopping place.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">It is a short flight from Hong Kong on its stellar national flag airline, the Royal Brunei. Do note that there is a limitation on bringing alcohol - I believe it is 2 litre - and the luggage has to pass through a x-ray scan when exiting the airport. A drop over 2 litre and you will have to bid farewell to them at the customs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Dining is a national sport here. People love to eat, and there is a blinding variety of foods that I have never seen or heard of. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The Chinese first recorded the island of Borneo about a thousand years ago, noting that it was a wealthy and strong empire. The next millennium of its history is coloured by major wars with the Spanish and the British. The turning point came in 1929 when oil was discovered, which, since then, had created most of its wealth and fame.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">It came under the protectorate of the British (who wasn't?) in 1888 and finally in 1984 Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah proclaimed its independence. Today, the capital city Bander Seri Begawan is a lively, westernized city that boosts equally vibrant local colours. The beautiful mosque stood a stone's throw away from a shopping centre, and Times Square in Brunei will keep you occupied with the latest Hollywood movies alongside fancy cafes and local restaurants. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I never stray far from a Fazioli piano!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Fly to Brunei on its flag carrier: </span><a href="http://www.flyroyalbrunei.com/"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">http://www.flyroyalbrunei.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">, and experience the Bruneian hospitality at The Empire: </span><a href="http://www.theempirehotel.com/"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">http://www.theempirehotel.com/</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Qingyang Guzhen (<span class="lemmaTitleH1"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">青岩古镇</span></span><span class="bk-editable-lemma-btns bk3-title-wrap"><a class="bk-editable-edit nslog:10000401" data-edit-id="404936:%E9%9D%92%E5%B2%A9%E5%8F%A4%E9%95%87" data-title="编辑" href="javascript:void(0)" id="lemma-edit"></a>)</span>, roughly translates to Old Town of Qingyang, is one of most important old towns preserved in the province of Guizhou in southwestern China. Built in mid-14th century, it began as a military stronghold, but soon attracted a group of intelligentsias and craftsmen who shaped much of the culture as seen today. In modern history, it was an important command post of the communist army, as well</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> as a secret hiding place for many of communist party leaders and secret agents, such as </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Li_Kenong" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Li Kenong</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">. Equivalent to the French list of "Les plus beaux villages" (The most beautiful villages), Qingyang Guzhen is listed in 2013 by the Chinese government as one of the most charming villages. Since then this has been a favourite destinations for tourists in Guizhou.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;">It is sometimes translated as Qingyan Ancient Town, but road signs will point you to Qingyang Guzhen. There isn't a standardization in China for Romanizing place names. More information on Chinese "Wikipedia" here: <a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/20951.htm#2">http://baike.baidu.com/view/20951.htm#2</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The local peasants are extremely camera-shy.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Breakfast for the champion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">A Chinese wine cellar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Part of the process of making this candy is to have it take a Guantanamo-style beating.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Chinese cheese and cheese mongers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> Pork knuckles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The old town is situated just 60km south of Guiyang, capital of Guizhou. However, traffic in Guizhou is notoriously bad, and it had taken us a good part of an hour snaking out of the city. There is no entrance fee to go into the town although almost everything is purpose-built for tourists, including restaurants and stalls. </span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Qingyan Ancient Town, 114 County Road, Huaxi, Guiyang, Guizhou, China26.332925 106.688875999999940.81089049999999929 65.380281999999937 51.8549595 147.99746999999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-79729799280121892302014-08-15T12:08:00.000+02:002014-12-15T10:43:24.267+01:00Metula, Northern Israel, at an arm's length from Hezbollah<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Finding a peaceful sanctuary these days isn't easy. After my concert in Tel Aviv and a visit up north to the Sea of Galilee, I attempted to drive even further north - yes, towards the border with Lebanon, where the Israeli and the Hezbollah had stopped exchanging bombs since the Lebanon war in 2006, in what is now mostly vineyards and agricultural oasis. Local wines from the nearby Golan Heights provide a perfect match for the fresh produce, and it seemed like a perfect place to get away from the piano.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The northern-most town of Israel is Metula. Funded by </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Baron Rothschild in 1896, it was originally intended as farmlands, establishing around 60 Jewish families here. Writers in the early 20th already praised the beautiful nature surrounding Metula. During the British Mandate period, refugees scurried through the border into Israel, often hiding in homes for the locals to stage fake weddings before moving further inland away from the border. More recently it has become a quiet resort town with small hotels and guest houses.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The drive from Sea of Galilee to Metula was very enjoyable, passing by pastures and farmlands, and little scenic villages. Entering into Metula, the initial impression was more intimidating than I thought: assault vehicles, double fences, unidentified military structures, closed off areas, and probably the most chilling sight of all, the yellow Hezbollah flag flying at a distance. After taking a deep breath to regain some unruffled sanity in this place of strife and conflict, everything - including the Lebanese side - looked so calm and placid, the landscape so charming and serene, and there were even sounds of children coming from a playground nearby. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;">Official website with vineyards and hotel recommendations: <a href="http://goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Tourist%20Information/Discover%20Israel/Cities/Pages/Metula.aspx">http://goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Tourist%20Information/Discover%20Israel/Cities/Pages/Metula.aspx</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Heading into one of the restaurants, I was greeted warmly by the proprietor who was tasting some wine from a nearby winery. The third-generation winemaker brought along a couple of bottles and beckoned me to join their tasting. Composed and professional, he talked about his wine and vineyard in the Golan Heights with perfect English, and I happily selected a few bottles of my favourites.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The tranquility of the area has left an indelible impression in my mind, but tranquility is like a rainbow that exists only in our vision rather than the sky. Shortly after I visited, there were news of bombs dropping near Metula (see </span><a href="http://www.jpost.com/Defense/Lebanese-sources-deny-rocket-fire-on-northern-Israel-314511" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"> and </span><a href="http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/1.580498" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">). I sincerely hope that my newly found friends are safe and out of harm's way.</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Metula, Israel33.277232 35.5782349999999533.224126999999996 35.497553999999951 33.330337 35.658915999999948tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7814481750266695352.post-54050652962577609602014-08-14T13:02:00.001+02:002014-12-15T10:43:58.619+01:00Pontevedra, a quinessential Galician town<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">My summer performances had brought me to Galicia, northwest Spain, where I based myself in the pretty town of <a href="http://ernestso.blogspot.com.es/2014/08/cambados-wine-capital.html" target="_blank">Cambados</a> for a few good days. Exploring the region is easy, with quick connections to the regional motorway (or autovia in Spanish) and scenic country roads.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">20 minutes southeast of Cambados is the ancient town of Pontevedra. Situated at the mouth of a river, there had been intense trading activities since antiquity. It later became one of the main ports of Galicia. It is a popular myth that Greek </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">heros of the Trojan war began trading in Pontevedra and hence the city as we know it was established, becoming a glowing example of a Galician town.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">In the meandering streets one finds tapas restaurants and "Pulperia" - little eateries that specialize in serving Galician octopus. Interesting antique shops add to the vintage feel of the old town, and the numerous Gothic churches and squares attest to the glorious past of the proud Galicians. It was also here that the first book in Galician (or Galego) was published.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Half an hour from Vigo airport, lying on the main autovia of the region that branches out to fantastic little towns, resorts and beaches, Pontevedra is a must-visit for visitors to Galicia's Rias Baixas region. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Official page: </span><a href="http://www.visit-pontevedra.com/ing/"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">http://www.visit-pontevedra.com/ing/</span></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">今年夏季的演出把我帶到西班牙的加利西亞省來,<wbr></wbr>在這裏過了很充實愉快的幾天。從下塌的坎瓦多斯小鎮出發,<wbr></wbr>我使用了連接得很好的高速公路,很方便地遊覽了附近的幾個地方,<wbr></wbr>欣賞了美不勝收的田園風光。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">從坎瓦多斯向東南大約二十分鐘的車程,<wbr></wbr>便來到了古老的小鎮蓬特韋德拉(Pontevedra)。<wbr></wbr>因為這個小地方正正位於河流的出口,<wbr></wbr>很久很久以前已有很多商人在這裏開始做貿易生意了,<wbr></wbr>後來更成為加利西亞省一個重要的貿易港口!在希臘神話故事中,<wbr></wbr>就有一位特洛伊戰爭的英雄在蓬特韋德拉這裏開始了貿易,<wbr></wbr>因而就建立了我們今天所認識的蓬特韋德拉城了!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">來到蓬特韋德拉,要做的事情有很多:看看幾座宏偉的哥德式教堂、<wbr></wbr>參觀古鎮裏有趣的古玩及手工藝品商店、<wbr></wbr>欣賞鎮裏的橫街小巷及見證了加利西亞輝煌歴史的廣場、<wbr></wbr>找找小巷裏吃西班牙特色小食「tapas」<wbr></wbr>的餐廳及吃加利西利八爪魚的「Pulperia」小食店。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">蓬特韋德拉位於主要公路的旁邊,從維戈機場出發車程只需半小時,<wbr></wbr>是遊覽加利西亞省 Rias Baixas 區不能錯過的一站。</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">蓬特韋德拉官方網頁:</span><a href="http://www.visit-pontevedra.com/ing/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">http://www.visit-<wbr></wbr>pontevedra.com/ing/</span></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13062426084951292146noreply@blogger.com0Pontevedra, Pontevedra, Spain42.4298846 -8.64462019999996342.3830071 -8.7253011999999632 42.4767621 -8.5639391999999628